Q&A with Guillaume de Beer
Guillaume de Beer runs the kitchen at Restaurant Breda. And in that kitchen, the ambition is even higher than at Daalder and Guts & Glory. Food at a very high level, combined with genuine Brabant conviviality.
Which food trend should we put an end to immediately?
Wiping away dots, brushes on the plate, using food coloring, cutting out shapes, molds and cresses. Even though we may have done this a little at Daalder too, I’m completely done with it. If it’s done by good chefs, it can turn out well and be beautiful or funny. But if a dish isn’t good at its core, but has been dressed up with nonsense, I’d prefer to throw that plate right through the restaurant.
Most memorable dining experience?
That may well have been at Ron Blaauw’s, together with my parents-in-law. He was still in Ouderkerk aan de Amstel at the time. I was served a dish of cauliflower fried in beurre noisette with truffle. One of the discoveries that evening was that truffle doesn’t taste like truffle tapenade—that was very special to taste. And the combination with cauliflower is truly fantastic. We’ve now put that dish on the menu at Restaurant Breda, but given it our own twist. And besides that, De Gulle Waard with Nel Schellekens in Winterswijk. Somehow, I was so moved by what that woman does that I shed a tear.
Favorite drink?
I like drinking Coca-Cola Light. Regular cola tastes a lot better, but it’s so unhealthy. I also drink spicy tomato juice with Tabasco at least once a day. I love that spicy stuff—I even have a tattoo of a Tabasco bottle.
Indispensable kitchen gadget?
Those are actually a few substantial appliances rather than gadgets. We’ve noticed that we really can’t do without a Thermomix, immersion blender and KitchenAid.
What would you never eat again?
I don’t like anything made with almonds, such as almond pastries and cookies. The flavor, the texture—I find it sweet without any freshness. A bit musty, all of it. I also really hate fresh dates. I simply don’t like sweet, autumnal chestnut flavors. But I’m not much of a sweet tooth anyway.
Which country is your favorite when it comes to food?
I’m drawn to the purity of Italian cuisine, but I find French sauces truly fantastic. If I have to choose, I’d go for French cuisine. I’ve been going to Brittany all my life, and there are always certain things I have to eat there. Often some fish or crêpes—not necessarily culinary masterpieces, but so delicious.
What should everyone have eaten at least once?
My grandfather’s homemade mayonnaise. Real mayonnaise—that’s nostalgia. I’ve also used his recipe several times at Guts & Glory or as the basis for something in a dish.
What is the best product from the supermarket?
Packets of noodles. I don’t just let the noodles soften in water; I prepare them properly. Super convenient and tasty.
What’s still on your food wish list?
I think I need to head to Spain, because I’d really love to go to El Celler de Can Roca. I also want to visit all of Ferran and Albert Adrià’s places, as well as Fäviken in northern Sweden. Yes, I’d really, really love to go to these places.
Which cookbook should everyone have on their shelf?
I’m a huge fan of Thomas Keller’s book Sous-Vide. It’s a little dated by now, but it contains beautiful photos. Keller is so creative with ingredients and thinks outside the box. The book clearly shows how you can use sous-vide techniques. Strangely enough, I’ve never used anything from it, but I enjoy looking through it. I also think Jamie Oliver’s books are excellent; they’re a little more accessible.
What do you like to make at home when you want to eat quickly and well?
To be honest, I don’t cook all that much at home, but otherwise it would be a tasty little pasta dish. I like dry pasta without sauce, but with a little olive oil, some prawns, garlic and tomatoes. Very simple.
Which dish makes you lose all self-control?
It’s not really a dish for me, but rather chips. I absolutely love Bugles. I don’t eat them very often, but once the bag is opened, it has to be finished.
Text: Nora van den Heuvel
Image: Kyonne Leyser
