Thirsty tales

Surprising Somontano

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Somontano is Spain’s most exciting up-and-coming wine region. The land is green, the bodegas young and the winemaking dynamic. That makes the wines surprisingly different from those produced elsewhere in the country. High time to get to know them better.

Foto van culinair journalist Romy Kooij

We know Spanish Rioja and Rueda, but Somontano has yet to really make our wine bells ring. And yet, it produces excellent wine. Made in a modern, accessible style. Deliciously Spanish, but refreshingly light, with plenty of wafting fruit. And importantly, price and quality go hand in hand here.

Below the Pyrenees

Somontano literally means ‘at the foot of the mountain’. It is located at the foot of the Pyrenees, between Catalonia and Navarre. Actually, quite close to France. In this small region, it can be very sunny and hot. But on these mountain foothills, influenced by the sea, temperatures drop again at night. And thanks to the many streams and rivers, the region is also wonderfully green. All of this produces fresh grapes with extra flavour.

State-of-the-art bodegas

Somontano only became an official Spanish wine region (D.O.) in 1983. Local viticulture is therefore still very young. Most wineries are ultra-modern and efficient. The winemakers experiment freely and make use of the latest techniques. They also invest generously in planting international grape varieties such as cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay.

European grape cocktail

In Somontano’s wines, typically Spanish grapes simply share a bottle with foreign varieties. Unlike many other regions, they have no problem with that here. They simply make what they like. There is mainly red wine, but also white and rosado. Made from around fifteen different grape varieties. Sultry, fruit-driven red blends of tempranillo, syrah and cabernet sauvignon, for example; juicy rosé made from garnacha (grenache) and syrah; fresh whites from macabeo and sauvignon blanc; or a subtly oak-aged Chardonnay.

Spanish Gewurz

The sauvignon blanc in particular shows that it can be quite cool here. This so-called cool-climate grape feels completely at home in Somontano’s higher vineyards. And even a typical Alsatian grape such as gewurztraminer thrives here. This kind of Spanish Gewurz is more light-footed and less full-bodied than its French sibling. But the rose petals, lychees and tropical fruit still burst from the glass. Delicious with Asian food.

Modern wine with a Spanish twist

Somontano is more or less Spain’s version of the New World. Tradition and modernity happily go hand in hand here. The result is well-priced, modern wines with a delicious Spanish twist. And that makes us happy.

 

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