44 Years of Truth on the Plate

On 7 December, Michelin will present its 2016 guide to the Netherlands, and speculation is rife: will we get a new third star? And who will have to hand one in? There is one establishment that has held a star continuously for 44 years, and counting: De Kromme Dissel in Heelsum. The dark horse of the Dutch restaurant scene.

At a time when newness equals greatness, and disruptive sets the tone, continuity is old news. Just like a restaurant that has been cooking at Michelin level for 44 years. Especially if the chef who has been with the restaurant for 25 years is not constantly featured on society pages or in televised cooking shows. But De Kromme Dissel in Heelsum—the restaurant in question—is the dark horse of the Dutch restaurant scene.

Tonny Berentsen (47) started there in 1990 as chef de partie under sous-chef Angelique Schmeink, when the menu mainly featured classics such as saddle of lamb (served in its own pan) and lobster à l’américaine. After Schmeink, who had risen to become chef, left in 2000, Berentsen became chef: “When De Kromme Dissel retained its star during that transitional year, it was a huge celebration! But also stressful, with a red rash on my neck. Because now I had to prove that star with an identity of my own. It took years before I could attend the ceremonies without Prednisone. My style is not linear. I use Dutch, Asian and Arab products in a mix of cooking styles. A classic approach with new techniques. Including pine-needle sponge cake, yes. I cycle through the countryside here and draw inspiration from the scents, colours, flavours and shapes I encounter.”

“I don’t need my own name on the façade. Nor do I need a food truck or fast-food joint.”

But the lobster à l’américaine is still there?

“For 45 years. Guests drive a long way for it. But I have made it my own, with different garnishes, for example. I serve such classics à la carte, including saddle of hare with hare pepper. The six-course menu, on the other hand, bears my own signature. Those things don’t contradict each other. I come to the guests’ table myself and offer them a choice: a classic, my inspiration menu or a complete surprise? That interaction between chef and guest feels like coming home for both.”

Still, how do you stay at the same establishment for 25-plus years?

“I actually intended to stay only briefly. And I’ll be the first to leave if there’s nothing more I can do here. But I have complete freedom. I was recently allowed to make another book, Inspiratie. I feel like the owner. I’m always at my restaurant, still working behind the stove every day. I am De Kromme Dissel and De Kromme Dissel is Tonny. I don’t need my name on the façade. Nor do I need a food truck or fast-food joint.”

Your signature dishes?

“I love soup. Such as porcini soup, adapted to the season. And also: grilled turbot with ravioli, poached egg yolk and morel sauce. And scallop with fennel and oscietra caviar. There’s no hocus-pocus, creams, ointments and foams at my restaurant. Or not exclusively. But back to basics, with recognisable sauerkraut on the plate. Real food. And that starts with purchasing the ingredients. Then doing as little as possible to them. The pure truth on the plate.”

And Michelin understands you?

“Michelin likes classic food, not too many flavours on the plate, regional and seasonal ingredients that are fresh, combined with a clearly individual style. I was recently at the headquarters in Brussels. They called De Kromme Dissel an icon of Dutch gastronomy.”

Second star?

“They said: better one good star than two mediocre ones.”

So no Prednisone on 7 December?

“If the second star comes: great. If not: that’s fine too. The greatest compliment remains when a guest says: “I’ll be back.”

Text: Marjan Ippel
Image: De Kromme Dissel