Dining at Scheepskameel
At the Marineterrein in Amsterdam Oost, the men behind successful restaurant Rijsel have opened a second establishment. FavorFlav’s editor in chief Marcus Polman went there to eat.
Scheepskameel?
What’s in a name? Scheepskameel is a term from the maritime world. A Dutch invention that allowed merchant ships to reach Amsterdam’s shallow harbor in the Golden Age with the help of floats. The restaurant is located at the Marineterrein, near the Maritime Museum in Amsterdam. Hence the reference to the illustrious maritime history of this place.
Where exactly is it?
It takes some finding. The restaurant is in ‘building 24’ on the immense fenced-off area called Marineterrein. Until recently, it was off-limits because it served as a naval base. Not a place you could simply walk into. It has recently become public space, and several restaurants and a brewery have moved in. You have a view of the water, railway tracks and Nemo.
A daring location, then?
Yes. But the two men behind Scheepskameel (host Pieter Smits and chef Iwan Driessen) started the successful restaurant Rotisserie Rijsel in a former domestic science school in Amsterdam Oost five years ago. If you make good food, guests will find you, Rijsel proves. Unconventional locations are currently doing well in the hospitality world. It is actually a quartet: Rijsel alum Bob Kaasenbrood and former Marius chef Tijs Jeurissen are also owners.
It is a large, bright establishment. Lots of windows. Simply furnished. White and cream-colored interior. The eye-catcher is the open kitchen. Not just partly open, but completely open, even without counters, as if the chefs are cooking among the guests. When we visit, the restaurant has only been open for a week, but all the tables are occupied. It is pleasantly noisy and lively, like a Parisian brasserie. Fortunately, the acoustics are perfectly fine. The waitstaff are dressed in white shirts (at least the men), neatly rolled up and wearing stylish dark blue aprons.
What’s on the menu?
The compact menu is clearly organized. Starters under the headings ‘raw’ (including oysters, charcuterie, sardine, tuna), ‘vegetables’ (dishes centered around vegetables) and ‘meat/fish’. And also: cheese (available by the piece for € 3.50 – good idea!) and several desserts. The wine list is striking. Scheepskameel offers exclusively German (quality) wines. Original. German wine is an underrepresented category on the wine lists of Dutch restaurants.
Our dining companion M. opts for veal: veal brains, veal heart and veal cheek, served with a salsa verde
What do we eat?
We start in the ‘raw’ category with beef bavette, fried chanterelles, capers and mayonnaise. A stripped-down version of steak tartare, with coarsely minced bavette. Deliciously creamy thanks to the homemade mayonnaise, with plenty of punch from the salty capers. The super-fresh, beautiful tuna is served with lemon jus and radish. The menu says bluefin tuna (but as for which tuna species is endangered where, we don’t know offhand – or, more accurately – we prefer to repress this for the sake of our gastronomic mission). The same applies to the tuna: simple but effective.
The Bilstar-Kuche (from the ‘vegetables’ category) turns out to be a rösti-like bird’s nest of finely shredded Bildstar potato. Baked crisp and golden brown. It goes wonderfully with the slightly sweet red onion with sauce and a soft egg. A rich dish, hearty fare, but well conceived. The ricotta with sea lavender and peas makes us downright cheerful. Spring on a plate. Suddenly we realize again what a fresh pea is supposed to taste like (namely, deliciously sweet). The anchovy breadcrumbs provide both the crisp and salty accents.
The pork loin main course consists of several slices of fatty pork, with fresh broad beans and chorizo. Delicious. Our dining companion M. opts for veal: veal brains, veal heart and veal cheek, served with a salsa verde. The cheek is lovely and tender, while retaining some bite. The heart beautifully red inside. The brains are very good, she assures us (brains aren’t for me – no matter how well prepared).
Suddenly we realize again what a fresh pea is supposed to taste like
How are we doing?
The desserts have also received attention. The ‘zitrone tartellette’ is deliciously fresh and tart, and the pecan pie comes with exceptionally successful sticky caramel. A nice touch: for a supplement of € 1, you get an espresso (the beans come from coffee roasters White Label in Amsterdam West).
And the wine?
After an aperitif with a Brot & Butter wine (‘the house wine’ – a choice of no fewer than eight wines by the glass), host Pieter Smits produces a white Moselle wine from the German winery Heymann-Lowenstein. Fresh and dry. German quality wine indeed.
Is the service just as good?
The service is attentive and friendly. Crisp bread, a carafe of chilled water and pickles with ossenworst appear on the table in the blink of an eye after we arrive. Where necessary, explanations are given about the wine and food without becoming tiresome for a moment.
What does the bill say?
We pay 150 euros for two people. This includes wine, cheese, dessert and coffee. But it can certainly be done for less. Starters cost between € 8 and € 12.50; main courses € 15.50. The excellent house wine starts at € 4 per glass. In short: all very reasonably priced for the quality provided.
Recommended?
Absolutely. Scheepskameel has everything it needs to fully live up to its rapidly established reputation as ‘the new 020 hotspot’. At the start, the founders said they wanted nothing to do with ‘little mousses’ and ‘paintings’ on the plate. And indeed: everything here revolves around the philosophy of respecting the product on the plate. No gimmicks. Minimum number of ingredients, maximum flavor (we counted only four to five ingredients per dish). For lovers of simple, almost rustic cuisine. With plenty of attention to the quality of the food, wine and guest. A restaurant you’ll be happy to return to (provided there is room). Just like Rijsel.
Scheepskameel
Kattenburgerstraat 7 – building 24,
Opening hours: Tuesday through Saturday from 18:00
Reservations can only be made by phone, daily from 14:00
T:+31 (0)20-337 96 80
Text: Marcus Polman
Images: Janus van den Eijnden
