How to: cook with MSG
Even though chefs like David Chang are trying to do everything they can to counter it, there is still a stigma attached to cooking with MSG/E261. I’m firmly on Dave’s side, so here are some tips for making the most delicious dishes with MSG yourself.
MSG is an amino acid that is abundant in, for example, Parmesan cheese, tomatoes and dry aged beef. When people say that a dish contains a lot of umami (the fifth taste), it means that a dish contains relatively high levels of MSG. Asian restaurants often have signs hanging up proudly pointing out their ‘no MSG’ policy. Many people think they become extremely unwell from the stuff. Headaches and bloating are common complaints.
Also read: 7x more cheese in your life
At the (online) Asian supermarket, you can buy pure MSG; a white powder that looks a bit like salt. And you know what? Our bodies really don’t distinguish between MSG obtained from a generous amount of Parmesan cheese and the same substance sprinkled over your dish in pure form. I wrote earlier about the effects of MSG, and how they are actually all pretty minor. Thankfully, because it gives dishes an instant savory flavor that you need in your life.
Getting started
Congratulations, you’ve scored your pure umami in the form of MSG; your life will never be the same again. What’s the first thing you’re going to make with it? It might sound strange, but I recommend frying scrambled eggs. Make one half with MSG and the other half without it, so you can taste exactly what the difference is. A little is enough; use just as much MSG as you would salt. Now that you know exactly what the flavor is like, you can add it to many more dishes.
Asian
Naturally, MSG is a hit in all savory Asian dishes. A bowl full of fatty noodles, but also stir-fried bok choy or Chinese cabbage with some garlic, becomes even more delicious with a little of the stuff. Stir it into your miso soup or a Thai or Indian curry. For all I care, add it to the marinade for your satay, and it’s an absolute must in fried rice, of course.
Rich flavor
Not in the mood for Asian food? MSG is also delicious on roasted vegetables or chicken wings, in your stew or sauces. It brings out the umami in products that are already rich in flavor. Roasted tomatoes and MSG? Amazing!
Cocktails
Even your alcoholic tipple gets a boost from a little MSG. Bar Goto in New York, for example, has an Umami Mary on the menu: a Bloody Mary, but with some extra MSG. The umami from the tomatoes with an extra pinch of MSG makes this the ultimate savory cocktail. Cheers!
