Nel Schellekens, Gasterij de Gulle Waard

Since the announcement that Gasterij De Gulle Waard in Winterswijk will close its doors at the end of this year, it has been absolute madness for chef Nel Schellekens. The phone is ringing off the hook, and emails and other messages are flooding in. Everyone wants something from or with Nel.

Which food trend should we put an immediate stop to?

I’m more of a trendsetter than a follower myself. I’ve always been that way, so I’m not really concerned with trends. But what bothers me is that real food has disappeared into the background. It’s more about colour, shape and texture, but no longer about flavour. That’s a shame. The trend I consider important is that we pay even more attention to what we eat. Creating greater awareness, especially among Generation Y. They have absolutely no idea what kind of fuel they’re putting into their bodies. They’ll easily drink two litres of cola or Fristi.

Most memorable food experience?

Oh, I have a few. In Malaga, Spain, I ordered some food blindly and didn’t really know what to expect. In the end, I got a whole pig’s tail with a crispy curl and back fat combined with lobster. Wow, it was really delicious. Something else I’ll never forget is the cockerel my mum and grandmother used to make. That was always very special. I’ve tried making it myself, but the flavour just isn’t the same. That has to do with the experience.

Favourite drink?

I’m very simple when it comes to drinks: I drink green tea, black coffee, water in all colours, wine in all colours too, and beer. It depends on the time of day what I choose, but I don’t have one favourite drink.

Indispensable kitchen gadget?

I’m not really into gadgets, but I can’t do without my mill knife, which I’ve had for a very long time. I’ve had many knives, but that mill knife always comes back to me. The only truly indispensable things are my hands. I notice that, now that I’m getting older, my hands are becoming a little stiffer. That’s really awful.

What would you never eat again?

My little brother and I cooked for ourselves from a young age. Whoever got home from school first would cook something. And yes, it didn’t always go well. So one afternoon I came home from school and my brother had already cooked. There was a pan on the stove containing some sort of pasta sauce, a mash with a raw egg beaten through it. It looked so disgusting and smelled so disgusting. I thought: give my portion to the dog. Then I went somewhere to get some chips.

Which country is your favourite when it comes to food?

Belgium. I have a tremendous connection with Belgium and therefore a soft spot for it. I’m originally from Brabant, but our family had many Belgian connections. In my family, we love tasty, good food. We ate everywhere, so I was able to get acquainted with excellent Belgian chefs at an early age. The way food is experienced there is beautiful. I still follow a route through Belgium every year, visiting restaurants. It genuinely makes me happy.

What should everyone have eaten at least once?

At the moment – actually, always – I’m very focused on offal. Perhaps better put: I’m currently in the spotlight with offal such as heart. I think everyone should try heart at least once, because the flavour is so extraordinarily intense and surprising. Of course, a heart looks gruesome, and the idea is gruesome to some people. But when I show them how much strength it contains and how special it tastes, everyone who loves meat is won over.

What is the best product from the supermarket?

I go to the supermarket once a year because I have absolutely nothing with it. My husband does go occasionally for some washing-up liquid, scouring sponges, bin bags and a few more things like that.

What is still on your food wish list?

Two favourites are closing. I’ve been going to In de Wulf every year since Kobe Desramaults took over. Because of how busy things are, I can’t do that now. A great loss. And likewise De Karmeliet, run by the great Geert Van Hecke.

Which cookbook should everyone have on their shelf?

I find that a difficult question, and if I send you a photo of my bookcase, you’ll understand. It’s completely overflowing. Cookbooks are a real addiction of mine. I don’t really cook from them, but I do still pick up specialist books such as the comprehensive butcher’s handbook from time to time. And I’m a fan of Harold McGee’s book ‘On Food and Cooking’. I get a lot of knowledge from it.

What do you like to make at home when you want to eat quickly and well?

When we’re open, I don’t eat myself. Otherwise I can no longer taste properly. But when I cook for my husband and me, I make the most delicious stir-fried vegetable dishes, for example with cold-ground chicory.

Which dish makes you lose all self-control?

The classic captain’s dinner with capucine peas and bacon is heavenly. Every time I’ve taken the last bite, I still want a little extra. I eat it with piccalilli, raw onion, potato salad and my homemade bacon. Everything is homemade, of course. That bacon is so delicious and incomparable to the bacon you buy at the supermarket. At least, that’s what I think, but my friends and guests do too!

Text: Nora van den Heuvel
Photography: Studio Marie Cecile Thijs – Cooks