New Zealand: More Than Savvy Sauvignon
New Zealand wine is more than just Sauvignon Blanc. Forget it. They make fantastic wine from all kinds of different grapes there. From the subtropical north to the deep, cool south. And the best part is that the pioneering winemakers are remarkably organic.
New Zealand is an island, or actually two. And when you’re sitting only the lonely in the middle of the ocean, that has its advantages. You’re spared other people’s pests and troubles, and the wind comes from all directions. There’s therefore (almost) no need to combat bugs chemically. And they’re passionate about sustainability anyway. That’s why only vibrant, healthy grapes grow there, practically begging to be turned into delicious wine.
Bold anti-beer pioneers
About 40 years ago, there were mainly sheep roaming around. And beer was king. It wasn’t until the 1970s that some bold pioneers decided to start making wine. Often European immigrants who simply got started, unhindered by history and regulations. ‘Green’ winemakers with common sense, because they mainly began working with sustainable energy sources. Something the European wine world could still learn a thing or two from.
More than Savvy Sauvignon
The country (1,600 km long) is warm and humid in the north and quite cold in the Antarctic south. On the North Island, the ‘warmer’ red grapes syrah, cabernet sauvignon and merlot grow primarily, as well as pinot noir and chardonnay. On the South Island, the main varieties are ‘cooler’ grapes such as pinot noir and riesling. And yes indeed, some very beautiful savvy sauvignon blanc too.
Loire, Burgundy, Rhône & Bordeaux in one place
Of course, we know the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc that bursts from the glass. But Pinot Noir – originally the Burgundy grape – is at least as interesting. From cool Central Otago, for example, or from Nelson and Martinborough. And then there’s the gravelly patch of Gimblett Gravels in Hawke’s Bay. Every wine that comes from there is simply too delicious! Whether it’s a juicy Syrah or a Bordeaux blend of merlot and cabernet sauvignon.
Sustainable Sir George Fistonich
During a wine-and-food dinner at Jaimie van der Heije in Ouderkerk a/d Amstel, I met one of those pioneers from back then. The Croatian George Fistonich of Villa Maria winery. He built his wine empire from nothing and now makes wine in pretty much every part of New Zealand. From crisp sauvignons to rich, fragrant red blends. Well-priced, but also elegant single vineyards. He works largely organically (aiming for 100%) and was one of the pioneers of the screw cap (now embraced by all producers in New Zealand). For his efforts, he was knighted and received the prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award from the International Wine Challenge. Sir George is the green inspiration for the rest of his country.
Wine & Dine
During the wine-and-food dinner, we tasted fifteen Villa Maria wines. From Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc to a sultry Cabernet-Merlot blend from 2002 (so much for screw-cap wines not aging well?). Beautiful wines, delicious, and some even fantastic. Wines like these show that New Zealand is much more than just crisp and fresh.
