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OMG, ‘they’re’ back!

asperges

This week, the very first ramps of the season were spotted again at American farmers’ markets. As a result, all of Instagram as well as the serious American food media are exploding with cries of joy like “OMG, ramps are back!” And what are we talking about? A native wild allium. Are Dutch foodies just as excited about the seasons? Food editor at large Marjan Ippel wonders.

Foto van culinair journalist Marjan Ippel

It’s April, which means it’s time for the first asparagus and strawberries. But how many people are even aware of this, apart from a bunch of foodies, chefs and growers?

Wicker picking baskets

It is generally not in supermarkets’ interest to place too much emphasis on the fact that certain fruits and vegetables that are available there all year round in wicker picking baskets actually only grow during one particular season.

So when the first Dutch strawberries finally arrive, consumers’ hearts don’t start beating much faster. The little summer jewels were already there at Christmas and Easter, weren’t they? Consumers’ ‘asparagus feeling’ also needs to be vigorously fanned with cheering PR campaigns à la “They’re back: asparagus!”

No other first arrival manages to move American foodies quite like ramps, wild garlic.

No, then there’s North America. As I type this, the very first ramps of the season are appearing at farmers’ markets there. And in no time, 100,000 proud photos of this American allium variety with the hashtag #ramps will be on Instagram. I don’t see that happening here yet with asparagus or strawberries.

Whole Foods

What is it about those ramps, anyway? Americans may well say “OMG” every other word and quickly find something “awesome” and “fanfuckintastic”, especially foodies. But no other first arrival manages to move them quite like this wild relative of garlic.

Perhaps it’s because ramps absolutely, genuinely do not grow outside their season. And therefore cannot even be found at Whole Foods at Christmas. Or because it is a native variety that fills American foodies with national pride?

Heart!

But we have our own national seasonal pride: Hollandse Nieuwe (herring), Zeeland mussels, flat Zeeland oysters, Oosterschelde lobster and strawberry varieties such as Elianny and Lambada. And, of course, white asparagus, which gets mainly Dutch fans up and moving. Yet despite all the campaigns, these too mostly elicit typically Dutch matter-of-fact reactions. Few ‘OMG’s, likes and hearts with exclamation marks.

Gingerbread nugget

It is a little sad that we react so coolly to our culinary first arrivals. But do we really go wild for no seasonal product at all? We do: the first gingerbread nugget of the year always gets people excited.

When will those be back, by the way? Easter was ages ago, wasn’t it? #heart!!!!!


Text: Marjan Ippel
Image: Shutterstock

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