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Q&A with Robert Kranenborg

Portret RJK

Robert Kraneborg is a jack-of-all-trades. At the moment, the chef can be seen as a judge on the television program MasterChef, but he is also associated with Thrill Grill, Le Big Fish and Le Clair.

Foto van culinair journalist Nora van den Heuvel

Which food trend should we put an immediate stop to?

We should immediately stop buying ready-made meals in the supermarket, unless they have been prepared artisanally. These meals are mass-produced and contain absolutely nothing nutritious. I have an 88-year-old mother who occasionally eats such a meal, and whenever I am with her and smell or see one of those meals, I am always shocked. Instead, we should cook fresh food, or if you do want something ready-made: go to the artisan butcher or delicatessen for a good meal.

Most memorable dining experience?

There have been quite a few, but fairly recently I went to Pakta in Barcelona , one of the restaurants owned by brothers Ferran and Albert Adrià. They work with Nikkei cuisine there, which is a combination of Japanese and Peruvian influences. I ate twelve small dishes there, prepared using Japanese techniques, and each one was equally special and beautiful. Those dishes are still prominently etched on my retina and taste buds.

There are also so many wonderful tonics and gins, but at the moment one from Monkey47 is my favorite.

Favorite drink?

I like wine in general, but especially gin and tonic. This drink has undergone enormous development and therefore never gets boring. There are also so many wonderful tonics and gins; at the moment, one from Monkey47 is my favorite. It is a special edition that turns pink and has a deliciously spicy flavor, thanks to the sloe berries from the Black Forest. Very special.

Indispensable kitchen gadget?

The Japanese mandoline has been indispensable in my kitchen for more than 25 years, because you can use it to slice all kinds of vegetables very quickly. How do I use it? I place the mandoline on top of the pan and quickly slice some onions, garlic or vegetables. They can then go straight into the pan to stew. The great thing is that because everything is sliced evenly, it also cooks evenly. It naturally takes a lot of work off your hands too, so it is highly recommended for every (amateur) chef.

What would you never eat again?

Tripe and brains. I always smell my food as I take a bite, and these organ meats have such an unpleasant smell that my throat immediately closes up. I worked in France, and there we were served tripe as staff food; that was quite an ordeal, yes.

Which country is your favorite when it comes to food?

France, above all. Italy as well, but France is always evolving and French cuisine is so diverse. On the one hand, things are very traditional in the regions, while on the other, Paris is home to the most modern chefs. The selection is so incredibly varied and all-encompassing. And I also received my most important training there.

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What should everyone try at least once?

For me, langoustine is the most refined shellfish there is. When prepared properly, it is truly my favorite ingredient. You can do anything with it: fry it, poach it, serve it cold from the shell with mayonnaise, or use it as part of a fruits de mer platter.

What is the best product from the supermarket?

I buy very little at the supermarket, but it is convenient that you can buy all the spices there.

What is still on your culinary wish list?

I want to taste everything that is offered in terms of new styles, and it is all on my wish list. First, I would go and eat at Next in Chicago. This is a restaurant that changes its theme every three or four months. Each time, they work with a completely new cuisine, and it is such a wonderful concept that I would love to experience it. Personally, I want to keep up with the new modern wave of chefs.

Which cookbook should everyone have on their shelf?

For anyone who enjoys cooking for themselves, I recommend the book Tutto Risotto by Florine Boucher. People often think they can make risotto, but it is actually complicated to put such a classic on the table. During the filming of MasterChef, the contestants were asked to make a good risotto, but what I was served by the amateur chefs was absolutely inedible.

What do you like to make at home when you want to eat quickly and well?

The quickest dish I often make is a kind of vegetable paella. I make it with whatever vegetables I have left in the fridge at that moment. I always add pimentón (smoked paprika), garlic, onions, salt and pepper.

Which dish do you have no self-control around?

I really enjoy making pasta carbonara in its most original form, with guanciale, egg and excellent Parmesan. Then I keep going until the pan is empty. I make it by whisking the eggs with some Parmesan. At the same time, the guanciale melts in a pan. When the pasta is ready, you mix it with the pork fat. Then you add the egg mixture, and the sauce thickens by itself. A splash of olive oil and you are done. You cannot often find guanciale (cured pork cheek) in the supermarket, but you can buy it at a specialty shop, such as Brandt & Levie or at L’amuse on Stadionplein in Amsterdam. I often bring the bacon back from Italy, because I go there at least once a year.


Text: Nora van den Heuvel

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