Res Dei 2014 – a heavenly wine
How wonderful would it be if there were a wine that had everything you were looking for? Surprisingly fresh, yet mature. Sultry, yet juicy. Effusive, yet floral. A powerful wine, lively enough to quench your thirst. That sounds like a gift from heaven, doesn’t it? Well, that gift exists! The white Res Dei from Calabria in southern Italy. Its name means something like ‘thing of God’. And indeed, it tastes – and smells – divine.
Grapes from Ancient Greece
This southern beauty, Res Dei 2014 – the Cirò Bianco from Cantine Ippolito – is a wine that can be served as an aperitif on a sunny terrace before smoothly carrying on into the meal.
Made from the rare greco bianco grape. The name Res Dei is a nod to historical accounts claiming that this Greek grape was ‘a product of God’.
The taste is then like a refreshing dip in the sea.
Untamed and wild
The Calabria wine region is just as special. It lies in the far south, in the toe of the Italian boot. The region is mountainous and untouched, sometimes even wild and rugged. It is warm, with plenty of sunshine, and surrounded by sea on all sides. Vineyards can be found on no more than 5 percent of Calabrian soil. Scattered across the foothills, where it is steep, hot and dry. Most vines stand close to the Tyrrhenian and Ionian coasts. So close, in fact, that they regularly end up underwater in winter. You might think that no decent wine could come from here. But nothing could be further from the truth.
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This wine region actually has an impressive – and very old – wine culture. Along the Ionian Sea, the Greeks were growing vines 2,500 years ago for Krimisa, a wine drunk by ancient Greek athletes during the Olympic Games. And it is precisely here that the Cirò appellation can be found. This is where the better southern top wines come from. Red wine is produced primarily: robust wines made from the native gaglioppo grape variety. Firm and full-bodied, as you would expect from such a warm and sunny region.
The tiny touch of oak ageing adds just a hint of voluptuousness, which also makes it delicious with food.
Tropical, yet fruity & fresh
But this Cirò Bianco is none of those things. The white greco bianco is unique. The variety is hardly found outside Calabria anymore. As its name suggests, this grape was already being cultivated by the Greeks. Today it is mainly used to make sweet dessert wines, but the local grape also proves surprisingly capable of producing vibrant, fresh wines!
The bright acidity makes it hard to imagine that this wine has had such a Mediterranean upbringing. It actually tastes mineral and crisp. But the exotic aromas quickly reveal its southern origins. Because besides the red grapefruit and lemon zesty notes, it is above all the more sultry aromas and toasted almond that tempt you. Along with those juicy ripe pears, peaches and a ripe cantaloupe melon. Intriguing and warm.
Perhaps you should buy an extra bottle, just to be on the safe side, to make it to the end.
With ceviche or gremolata
The taste is then like a refreshing dip in the sea. Especially candied bitter notes and sparkling citrus flavours linger. The tiny touch of oak ageing adds just a hint of voluptuousness, which also makes it delicious with food. Think grilled fish or vegetables with a fine olive oil. Or even better: serve it with a fresh ceviche or a dish with gremolata (a mixture of lemon zest, parsley and garlic). Such dishes complement a wine like this seamlessly. And everything becomes just that little bit more delicious.
This original wine is a great alternative to sometimes rather boring aperitif wines such as Pinot Grigio or Verdejo. And simply leave the bottle on the table after pouring. The wine will then be at the perfect temperature by the time you start eating. Ideal, then: you’re all set with one bottle. But perhaps you should buy an extra bottle, just to be on the safe side, to make it to the end.
The Ippolito 1845 Res Dei 2014Cirò Bianco DOC is available from Sauter Wijnen (€ 9.95)
