Ribera del Duero: Spanish cult wine
When you think of a cult wine, you quickly think of famous Bordeaux or Burgundy. And beyond the French borders, it’s probably an Italian Barolo or Brunello that first comes to mind. But Spain also has a classic red-wine region that is at least equally impressive: Ribera del Duero.
Some wines from Ribera del Duero excite the average wine lover just as much as—let’s say—a Bordeaux Pétrus. Wines from Vega Sicilia, in particular, stir up some pretty strong emotions. The Spanish royal court was already fond of Vega’s Unico, and Lady Di and Charly chose it for their big day too. Such a legendary reputation drives up the price considerably. But these days, besides the Vega Sicilia wines, there are many more fantastic Ribera wines. Sometimes very expensive too, but often available at a more appealing price.
Incredible blue grapes
Ribera del Duero lies northwest of Madrid, along the banks of the Duero. The world-famous Vega Sicilia has been making wine here since 1864, but the wine region itself has only officially existed since the 1980s. And yet this is already where the finest—and most expensive—Spanish red wines come from. Thanks to the altitude (around 800 metres on average), the extreme, dry climate (scorching days, cold nights) and soils made up of limestone, clay and pebbles, incredible blue grapes ripen here.
Tempranillo
The most important grape is Tempranillo. Yes, the same grape as in Rioja. Here, it is also known as Tinto Fino or Tinto del País. It is often blended with a little Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Garnacha or Merlot. Even a local white grape is used. This produces aromatic, full-bodied wines with a somewhat more ‘European’ character than Rioja wine. Ribera wines are also less sun-drenched than those from Rioja. The extreme climate on this dry Spanish plateau provides freshness and elegance.
The Golden Mile
Ribera del Duero stretches around 120 kilometres from east to west. But there is one small stretch along the Duero that really matters. The Golden Mile. Not exactly a mile, but rather a fifteen-kilometre stretch of asphalt west of the town of Peñafiel. By the gold of this Mile, they mainly mean the world-famous bodegas that have gathered here in a short period of time. Vega Sicilia, of course, but also Pingus, Arzuega, Alión, Hacienda Monasterio, Aalto, Viña Mayor and Pesquera. Clustered together, they produce cult wines that can easily cost between 100 and 400 euros.
Affordable stars too
Of course, it’s fun to drink such an iconic wine. And if you get the chance through a subscription, you might well be able to try one sometime. But these days, interesting and affordable alternatives are coming from the entire region—made by an increasing number of good bodegas. Wines with subtler oak ageing than before, all equally intense, powerful and packed with fruit. Because anyone who can make wine under Ribera del Duero’s extreme conditions can usually make something beautiful. Working organically also comes almost naturally here. That gives Ribera’s spectacular red wines an extra golden edge.
Interesting bodegas (available in the Netherlands):
Bodegas Vega Sicilia | Unico – Valbuena 5.˚ – Reserva Especial
Dominio de Pingus | Pingus – Flor de Pingus – Psi
Bodega Pesquera | Tinto Pesquera
Bodegas Arzuega | La Planta – Arzuega
Bodegas Viña Mayor | Viña Mayor
Bodegas y Viñedos Valtravieso | Valtravieso – Vendimia
Vizcarra Ramos | Torralvo
Martín Berdugo | Martín Berdugo
Finca Torremilanos | Montecastrillo – Los Cantos – Torre Albéniz
