Staycation #2: France in Amsterdam

Whether it’s from a street food market in Vietnam or straight from the French hypermarket: food always tastes extra delicious on holiday. This summer I’m staying at home in Amsterdam, but luckily there are plenty of places where you can briefly imagine yourself abroad. This summer I’m taking you along on my staycation, and this week we’re going to France.

Anyone who doesn’t know what lies behind the doors would simply walk past Bouchon du Centre in—you guessed it—the heart of Amsterdam. But if you want to pretend you’re in France for a little while, you really should go inside. Or, when the weather is nice, settle down on the small terrace. Wherever you sit, the red-and-white checked tablecloth creates an instant holiday feeling.

Definitely not a cuisine for the faint-hearted or vegetarians

Anyone who has ever been to Lyon knows that you stumble across bouchons there: informal restaurants serving local dishes. French cuisine is already known for butter and meat, but in Lyon they take it one step further. It’s a paradise for anyone who loves charcuterie, foie gras, cheese and rich sauces. At Bouchon du Centre, you’ll find exactly that. “Definitely not a cuisine for the faint-hearted or vegetarians!” it says on the website, and that’s absolutely right. Vegetarians are better off staying away, but if this is your thing, you’ve found heaven.

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One-woman business

What’s so special about this place? Host and chef Hanneke Schouten does it all on her own. She spends days cooking, opening for lunch and dinner three days a week (Wednesday through Friday). On Saturdays, you can only have lunch there. She makes everything herself, from creamy rillettes and pâté to start with, to the pie served for dessert. The sausages are the only exception: she brings those back from Lyon.

Prefer cooking at home? Then make sure you’ve mastered all the cutting techniques first.

The menu changes weekly, apart from a few classics. I have to admit that when I saw oeufs en meurette on the menu, Hanneke could do no wrong in my book. I sometimes ate this for breakfast in Lyon, because I love poached eggs in red-wine sauce so much. And yes, eggs are basically breakfast, right? The dish is perfectly executed here, just like the rest of the food. Actually, it doesn’t matter what’s on the menu—everything is delicious. Whether it’s the fish quenelles (a kind of elongated dumpling, cooked in a creamy sauce) or the blood sausage with apple. All the food is rustic and unfussy, exactly as it should be.

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French living room

The restaurant feels like a French living room. Hanneke stirs the pots and chats pleasantly with everyone in between. The restaurant is full of regulars, which is always a good sign and also great for the atmosphere. I completely understand that you’ll want to eat here as soon as possible. Do call to make a reservation, though, otherwise you won’t get in. For dinner, the restaurant is open from 17:00 to 20:00. Bring enough cash, because card payments aren’t possible. Bon appétit!

Bouchon du Centre
Falckstraat 3
Amsterdam