The heart of Peruvian cuisine

Peruvian cuisine is still relatively unknown to us, but it is definitely on the rise. Everyone knows ceviche by now, and more and more Peruvian restaurants are opening. Want to get started with this new cuisine at home? With Andina by Martin Morales, you have all the tools you need.

By new cuisine, I mean new to us Dutch people. Peruvian cuisine has existed for centuries, and the recipes in the book are based on cocina Andina, the oldest aspect and the heart of Peruvian cuisine. Andina means a woman, dish or ingredient from the Andes. Chef Martin Morales grew up in Lima, but his grandmother, mother and all his great-aunts were Andinas. Food from the Andes is in his blood.

Not complicated

Cocina Andina is based on the seasons. In summer, people eat fresh and light, while in winter more hearty dishes are served. Originally, the cuisine has always been organic, every part of the animal is used from head to tail, and nothing is wasted. Something many restaurants proudly promote today, but for Peruvian cuisine it is simply logical and has always been this way. The cuisine is not complicated at all; the dishes are practical and affordable, yet exceptionally flavorful because they are perfectly balanced.

Soups and broths are often served as starters, while the main course is often picante; a kind of stew. Meals are built around the most readily available ingredients—tubers and grains—with fruit, vegetables, fish or meat added if there is money for them or if they are easily available. Due to migration, those additional ingredients can be anything: the Spanish brought cucumbers and limes, Africans brought bananas and cassava, and Asians introduced tamarind, ginger and rice.

Casita Andina

At his London restaurant Casita Andina, Morales serves a mix of classic recipes from the Andes that are thousands of years old and new, modern recipes. The restaurant is colorfully decorated, Peruvian music plays, and there is a pisco and juice bar. As if you were in Peru, but in East London. You get the same feeling from browsing through this cookbook as you do in the restaurant.

All the dishes are incredibly colorful. There is plenty of cooking with sweet potato, purple potato, avocado, edible flowers and bright yellow sauces. It looks beautiful, but fortunately the dishes are not complicated at all. Naturally, there is a chapter devoted to ceviche, but have you ever had a Peruvian breakfast? Picante de huevos is the Peruvian version of Israeli shakshuka or Mexican huevos rancheros. Also known as: eggs in tomato sauce. A substantial but delicious start to the day.

Frying

Peruvians are also not afraid of plenty of frying—in that respect, they may resemble the Dutch—so you can go all out with eggplant fries, carrot fritters and avocado tempura when it comes to snacks. Or make a salad with broad beans and olives or causa with sweet potato and Jerusalem artichoke. I think the hardest part is choosing which dish to make first, but the result is bound to be fantastic.

Title: Andina
Author: Martin Morales
Publisher: Fontaine Uitgevers
Price: €21,99