Weekend in Antwerp
Antwerp, city on the Scheldt. Closer than Paris, but with a comparable joie de vivre. The Dutch love coming here, but often remain in the historic center around the Vogeltjesmarkt. While the koekstad has so much more to offer. Especially in and around that center.
Food editor at large Marjan Ippel was allowed to spend 24 hours exploring Antwerp’s streets with Antwerp native and drinks importer Luc Hoornaert, author of the city book series Must Eat. The six highlights (+ 1 bonus).
Désiré de Lille (since 1903) – Historic center
Speaking of cookies. The koek der koeken in the city is the laquemant, a waffle with syrup conceived more than a century ago by the namesake of this classic tea salon. My own Antwerp mother-in-law, once a cook in Antwerp, was already eating them half a century ago.
But what you come here for is an LA-style breakfast burrito with shredded beef, peppers and, on the side, the first little tequila of the day
Dim Dining – Historic center
Dimitri Proost (23) is chef to the godfather of Antwerp cuisine, Johan Segers of restaurant ‘t Fornuis*, when he develops an obsession with Japanese cuisine. He is the only non-Japanese person allowed to work at Amsterdam’s Yamazato. He now has 16 seats opposite ’t Fornuis in a typical little Antwerp historic building—mainly high stools at the bar, where he shapes the sushi. He also deep-fries his signature dish, octopus boiled thirteen times, in an ultrathin tempura coating with green peppers. ‘Dim ergo sum,’ says the chef.
Cocktails at Nine – Historic center
Hidden from passing tourists, this chic-looking cocktail bar occupies a building more than two centuries old. Craft cocktails are on the menu. From historic sixteenth-century rum punches and pre-Prohibition cocktails to the tiki drinks from the thirties, now enjoying a revival. For example, with chillies infused in alcohol in-house and house-dried blood orange, pineapple or ginger.
5 Flavors MMei – Zuid
Moved from Chinatown to Zuid. But it remained an authentic Chinese restaurant specializing in dim sum rarely seen in the Benelux. Often disguised as an animal—from hedgehog to shrimp. A daring main course: peppery duck beak with the tongue still attached.
Caracas Tequila y Cocina – Schipperskwartier
The colorful place with its welcoming Mexican cook is a joy to enter. A large collection of fresh hot peppers fills the display case. But what you come here for is an LA-style breakfast burrito with shredded beef, peppers and on the side the first little tequila of the day.
Slagerij atelier Millevaches – ‘t Eilandje
Whole carcasses hang in the window of this sleek, state-of-the-art butcher shop with a culinary focus, smokehouse and its own farm on the French Plateau de Millevaches. ‘Eat less, but better meat,’ says butcher-chef Robbrecht Wissels.
Opening soon: Mercado – Historic center
Covered food market in the old post office building on Groenplaats, under the auspices of Zeeland chef Sergio Herman, who is increasingly leaving his mark on the city of the Sinjoren.
Text & Images: Marjan Ippel
