3x next-level food at Hong Kong Airport
Soup dumplings, roasted goose and, for the adventurous eaters, jellyfish in sesame sauce and pork trotters braised in red bean paste; for hungry travelers, Hong Kong International Airport is paradise. So are you passing through, or have you just arrived at your final destination after a flight of over eleven hours? Do right and start by laying a good foundation at these airport restaurants.
If you receive a Michelin star or another noteworthy accolade in Hong Kong, there’s a good chance investors will transform the business into a full-fledged restaurant group or chain. Those who do well can ride that wave for years. If you’re going for the full monty, you’ll also find yourself at Hong Kong Airport; the ultimate showcase for that one star or honorable mention in the international press. Whether this state of affairs is entirely fair or not, it does at least ensure the continued presence of good food in places where you wouldn’t expect it so quickly. So let’s start at Hong Kong International Airport: the first stop for hungry travelers from all over the world.
At the invitation of Lee Kum Kee, I flew to Hong Kong last autumn. The goal: to learn everything about Chinese cuisine, from street food to fine dining and everything in between. Tom, our tour guide from Lee Kum Kee, was already waiting for us in the arrivals hall. If anyone knows a lot about the food scene in Hong Kong, it’s him.
Xiao long bao dumplings at Crystal Jade
Crystal Jade | Arrivals Hall, Level 5 (Terminal 1) | 06:30 – 00:00
The chances are slim that you’ll feel like standing in line for food after a long flight, but don’t let this potential obstacle stop you from visiting Crystal Jade. This originally Singaporean establishment is known for its consistent quality and is the perfect start to a food crawl at the airport. You come here for the xiao long bao dumplings. These large, juicy soup dumplings are filled with steaming broth and minced pork. First, you take a bite from the top, then slurp out the broth with plenty of force and noise, and only then eat the rest. Delicious with the wood ear mushrooms in black vinegar and the pickled cucumber. My advice: just like the person ahead of you in line, take a number and keep it cool.
Wonton noodles at Ho Hung Kee
Ho Hung Kee / Arrivals Hall, Level 5 (Terminal 1) | 06:00 – 00:00
There was just a long line at the place next door, but it suddenly seems to have disappeared like snow in the sun. Hungry and moving at lightning speed, we take a seat a few meters farther on at the historic Ho Hung Kee. What began as a street stall in 1946 is now a well-known wonton noodle restaurant in Hong Kong. In 2012, it became the first wonton noodle restaurant to receive a Michelin star (which it has managed to retain to this day for its branch in Causeway Bay).
After the soup dumplings just now, a large bowl of wonton noodle soup may not seem like a carefully considered choice, but Tom a.k.a. my brother from another mother a.k.a. walking encyclopedia when it comes to food in Hong Kong assures me that this is the dish to order here. The broth is clear, gentle and modest in flavor. The wontons are fresher than fresh. Very tasty, but I’m not immediately blown away by the dish. Tom teaches me that the simplicity of this dish is what defines it. The warming feeling and the sentiment are part of the flavor and experience. It’s actually a bit like my grandmother’s vegetable soup. As a matter of fact, I have a pot that no one is allowed to use because only I’m allowed to make Grandma’s soup in it, so I think I understand what Tom means.
Braised goose and sesame jellyfish at Hung’s Delicacies
Hung’s Delicacies | Terminal 2, Level 3 (Sky Plaza) | 07:00 – 22:00
The penultimate stop is Hung’s Delicacies: a simple Cantonese restaurant where chef Wai Hung Lai managed to retain his Michelin star for five years in a row. He has since lost it, but the food doesn’t taste any less delicious—as becomes clear shortly afterward. The meat is marinated and braised here in lou seoi: a marinade of soy sauce and a ‘top-secret’ spice blend from Guangdong (southern China). MSG-free, at least.
We order the braised goose, which turns out to be a signature dish. Unlike the more traditional Cantonese roasted goose—which, incidentally, I hadn’t actually tried yet, but later turns out to be crispy and somewhat dry—this once-feathered friend is meltingly tender and incredibly juicy. Highly recommended. Out of curiosity, I also ordered jellyfish in sesame oil. What did it taste like? Like nothing in sesame oil. Are you, like me, in a playful tourist mood? Order the duck tongues braised in liqueur; I’m still curious about those in retrospect.
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