Cees Helder Cooks

When we look at who shaped the restaurant scene in the Netherlands, two names immediately rise to the top: former three-Michelin-star chef, now culinary elder statesman, Cees Helder, and Amsterdam restaurant Dikker & Thijs. It is no coincidence that one of them once trained under the other. In December, the two will be reunited for a little while.

Once upon a time, restaurant/delicatessen shop Dikker & Thijs, on the corner of Amsterdam’s Prinsengracht and Leidsestraat, was an example and a pioneer in the Dutch hospitality industry. It produced many influential chefs, including John Halvemaan of his eponymous Amsterdam restaurant. But also the now ‘retired’ first three-Michelin-star chef of the Netherlands, Cees Helder.

Deboning Lambs

Helder earned his Michelin stars at his own restaurant Parkheuvel in Rotterdam. But long before that, some fifty years ago, he learned to debone lambs in the kitchen on the Prinsengracht. And in December, he will return to this ‘crime scene’ with a surprise menu featuring three signature courses.

Cees Helder never let himself be swept along by food trends & hypes.

More than any other chef, Cees Helder has witnessed the Dutch restaurant scene come of age. And not only that, he has also played an active role in it. Many chefs of today once trained under him, including Erik van Loo, who took over Parkheuvel from him ten years ago.

Grilled Turbot

And more than any other chef, Helder has always maintained his own place, never allowing himself to be swept along by trends and hypes. He retained his restrained and harmonious cooking style, even when the times called for showy excess on the plate. One of his famous signatures, grilled turbot with anchovy mousseline, provides unmistakable proof of this.

That simplicity and harmony will briefly return to the tables of his former training ground, which is now called Thijs by Dikker & Thijs. Whether the turbot will be included remains to be seen.

You can enjoy the ‘Cees Helder menu’ (three courses plus aperitif) from 15 through 26 December for € 39.50. You can make a reservation here.