Restaurants

Delivery review: Kaagman & Kortekaas’s takeaway meal

Kaagman & Kortekaas

During this insane coronavirus era, restaurants are closed, so we’re happily dining out at home. Fortunately, many new and special delivery and takeaway restaurants are joining the scene. And we’re going to test them for you. That way, we can keep eating well while supporting our beloved hospitality industry. Today: Kaagman & Kortekaas in Amsterdam.

Foto van culinair journalist Vincent van Dijk

Kaagman & Kortekaas has been one of my favorite restaurants in Amsterdam since it opened. Tucked away in a side alley off the Nieuwendijk. A haven of peace in the otherwise bustling old city center. The deliberately casual restaurant serves unbelievably good food. The namesakes behind the restaurant, Kaagman in the kitchen and Kortekaas in the dining room, know the hospitality business inside out. This is where you eat fantastic game and poultry in an always buzzing ambiance.

The delivery

The delivery menu is wonderfully straightforward: vegetarian vol-au-vent with mushroom ragout or confit de canard with a shellfish and duck croquette. The starter and dessert are fixed. Even though we’re crazy about poultry: today we’re going vegetarian for once. Twenty minutes after placing the order, a white bag stamped with K&K is hanging from my front door.

The dropped-off food package contains a letter with an extensive description of the dishes, just as you would normally receive in the restaurant. No puzzling required: the containers are childishly clearly labeled STARTER, MAIN, DESSERT and MUSHROOM RAGOUT.

What’s the starter?

We begin with a delicious combination of beetroot and burrata. The different textures of the beetroot paired with the creamy burrata are exquisite, as is the subtle white summer truffle, but the roasted Piedmontese hazelnuts complete the flavor experience.

And the main course?

The main course consists of a crisp puff-pastry shell filled with a ragout of Dutch mushrooms. I’ve never tasted ragout this delicious before, and as a product of the 1970s I’ve seen quite a few of them go by. The butter, the powerful stock, the crispy mushrooms… and yet: feather-light. A delightful dance between sweet and salty, with the acidity of the pickled vegetables served alongside completing the flavor ballet. It almost turns me poetic—so movingly delicious. The fresh pea purée with the crisp whole peas is also to die for. I have to restrain myself from ordering the menu again immediately. Could it be the mushrooms that are addictive?

And the finale…

Dessert is an éclair: a creamy, elongated choux pastry filled with crème pâtissière (pastry cream) made with salsify, Lambada strawberries, white-chocolate icing and Ricard. The fresh sprig of dill enhances the anise flavor of the glaze. The éclair is served on a red-and-white checked napkin that underscores the restaurant’s so-called casualness. This dish disappeared far too quickly as well, but fortunately its surprising flavor continues to linger on my palate for a long time.

Can Kaagman & Kortekaas join us at the table more often?

Can they? They must! The dishes were exceptionally delicious. I’d even say it’s risky for people prone to addiction, because you want more, more, more! You can expand the three-course menu, priced at €32.50, with a number of side dishes, such as various hams for €8.50, friandises with your coffee, sourdough bread and Kef’s renowned cheeses for €7.50. You can also choose from a number of affordable wines starting at €21.50. Everything can be ordered through Deliveroo. Do it!

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