Delivery review: the takeaway meal from the famous Italian restaurant Toscanini
In these crazy coronavirus times, restaurants are closed, so we’re enjoying eating out at home. Luckily, lots of new and unique delivery and takeaway restaurants are opening. And we’re going to test them for you. That way, we can keep eating well and support the hospitality industry. Today: Caffè Toscanini in Amsterdam.
Luckily, there’s Magnani
My favourite Italian restaurant, Toscanini, has been closed for years. Toscanini, where seemingly simple Neapolitan dishes are cooked that are brilliant in flavour. They suit the interior, which also appears modest but is so rich in atmosphere. This is mainly because it is always packed with people who know how to enjoy life. Luckily, their adjoining delicatessen shop Magnani is open. Takeaway only, so I walk through summery Amsterdam, where small groups of people drink wine in the sun and everyone suddenly greets one another. The city has been transformed into a holiday park.
Closed?
The clock strikes 7 p.m. ‘Unfortunately,’ says the woman sitting in front of the shop. ‘We close at 7. But maybe she’s still there.’ She points to part of the façade covered by a thick sheet of plastic. ‘What would you like?’ the girl mouths. ‘It’s still possible.’ Italian hospitality. A queue of couples immediately forms behind me. It’s clear: Toscanini can’t close for the time being. The girl hands me the bag through the opening beneath the counter. It feels like an illegal act. The bag is full of exciting little containers. It’s unclear what belongs with what. Like a researcher, I smell them and put everything in the right order. Order is important in these confusing times.
How does it taste?
I start with a modest but tasty vitello tonnato and a red cabbage salad with surprising pieces of grapefruit, which is considerably more generously portioned than the veal with tuna mayonnaise. But something is missing from the salad. Apart from the grapefruit, it isn’t surprising, and mainly feels very healthy. (Only later do I discover that the pistachios, which I had cheerfully sprinkled over the dessert, belonged with the salad.)
The main course, the ravioli, needs to go in the microwave for a moment. I can do that. And it tastes very good. The spinach and ricotta filling is very rich, and the ravioli tastes perfectly ‘al dente’. The two desserts are delicious too.
The crostatina di mandorle, or almond tart, is delicious, and the famous panna cotta with caramel sauce tastes wonderfully creamy. The pistachios give the dessert a refreshing twist.
Should Toscanini join us at the table more often?
Naturalmente! As long as the restaurant remains closed, we’ll certainly be going to Magnani more often, so we can still enjoy a little of Toscanini’s quality. The desserts are around €4, the pasta around €12, and the starters €4.50/€7.50. Those are prices that make you lick your fingers, aren’t they? For the menu, visit magnani.nl
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