Delivery review: Wils’s takeaway meal (from star chef Joris Bijdendijk of RIJKS®)
Delicious, the hospitality industry has been open again since 1 June. However, many restaurants continue to deliver or prepare takeaway menus because they do not have much space in their own restaurants and because their guests have discovered how enjoyable it is to eat out at home. One of these establishments is Restaurant Wils in Amsterdam.
Joris Bijdendijk, chef at Michelin-starred restaurant RIJKS®, opened Restaurant Wils in Amsterdam last October. Here, everything revolves around fire. We went to try it beforehand and were immediately fans. Michelin-starred chef Joris Bijdendijk of RIJKS® literally plays with fire here. With Erwin Oudijk and Friso van Amerongen at the stove, the cooking here is exceptionally good. Everything is prepared over blazing wood fire, the primal force of the kitchen. A reference to the Olympic flame that once burned next door. Wils was the architect of the Olympic Stadium and its surroundings. On the third floor, you have a beautiful view, especially from the terrace that will open soon. For now, we have to make do with a festive takeaway meal.
Bread from the bread sommelier
I take an Uber to the Olympic Stadium. Somewhat decadent, but considerably more pleasant than pushing a trolley through the supermarket. At the agreed time, an enormous bag is ready, containing various colour-coded containers. Finally, a deliciously fragrant piece of lamb shoulder is added, straight from the oven, along with an extra-large loaf of bread. ‘Lovely for breakfast tomorrow.’ This is not just any bread, by the way; it is made by a genuine bread sommelier. Maxim Rolvink creates breads that complement or enhance Wils’s dishes. It earned him a place on the list of lists: the FavorFlav Food Top 100 2019.
The menu
In principle, everything is ready to be served at the table. All that needs to be added to the yellow beetroot with sheep’s yoghurt is raspberry and granola; the pumpkin with orange only needs a sage dressing. The ritual actions of preparing the meal at the table. It takes a little puzzling to work out what goes with what, but the chef’s explanation on YouTube provides clarity.
These cold dishes have a summery freshness, as does the pearl barley with peas and mint. The large piece of seasoned lamb shoulder is bizarrely delicious in flavour and texture.
All dishes are generously portioned and can be shared. Something for everyone… Exactly! For dessert, there is a heavenly piece of bread & butter pudding with grapefruit curd.
Will we go back?
Absolutely! It is a real feast, and definitely worth taking a detour for! Thanks to the generous portions, you can enjoy it all over again the next day. And we cannot wait to sit on the new terrace after 22 June and be served by Wils’s lovely team. The takeaway sharing menu costs seventy euros (lamb shoulder) or fifty euros if you would like roasted cauliflower as a meat substitute. You can also order side dishes separately for €8.50 each. The bread is €7.50—and that is definitely a good idea, because it is hard to imagine a more delicious way to start the (following) day.
Restaurant Wils
Stadionplein, Amsterdam
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