Opinionated

How do you experience dining out in 2022 when the bill arrives?

hoge rekening restaurant

These past few months, we’ve been hit with one price increase after another. Raw materials and energy—and therefore groceries—have become more expensive, our energy bills at home have exploded, and although there are certainly hospitality entrepreneurs who would rather not pass on the increased costs to their guests, it’s virtually unavoidable. And have you actually gotten used to dining out again yet?

 

Foto van culinair journalist Delilah Warcup - van Eyck

Because after all those lockdowns and all the uncertainty caused by the pandemic, the past few months that the hospitality industry has been open again (at least, the businesses that made it through) have been absolutely festive for many people, but there’s also still a lot of comparing with “the old days.”

Many guests are also very understanding, and sympathetic to the fact that restaurants are struggling with staff shortages. It’s just that when the bill arrives, it can still come as a bit of a shock. But is that “simply” due to inflation, those increased costs, or the fact that we had forgotten what dining out actually costs?

Restaurant De School

So recently I went to eat at restaurant DS at De School in Amsterdam-West, and first of all: it was incredibly good. The service was knowledgeable and very friendly, the dishes were inventive and refined and executed extremely well, and the wine list was so delightful that it was a pleasure to get lost in it. There were six of us, the menu (seven courses!) had been agreed on in advance, and the wine flowed particularly generously. As in: at least one glass per course…

Bring on the Tikkie

Then the bill arrived. The lovely organizer of the entire dinner paid it upfront so that there wouldn’t be any fumbling around at the table, and shortly afterward the Tikkie came through. And you know what I thought then? “Well, that’s not too bad!” This feast had cost us €120 per person. And let me make this clear: €120 is really a lot of money. I’m fully aware of the privilege that allows me to spend €120 on an evening. I thought—and still think—that the evening was absolutely worth that amount. The ingredients were special, those wines! (you can tell wine is quite a theme for me), and every single member of the service team deserved a medal.

A recurring thing

Then I looked back in the group chat to see what the previous dinner out with this group had cost us. I still remember thinking at the time, “Oooohhh, okay, right, well… maybe I need to swallow that one.” And what did I find? Exactly the same amount! Well, €128. That was almost two and a half years ago, just before the pandemic, so a restaurant in the same category was just as expensive. I even think that restaurant (Bak in Amsterdam) could be considered somewhat chicer in terms of ambiance.

Letting it sink in

So what made me not find €120 for a (indeed very extensive) dinner all that crazy these days? It’s still a lot of money. Have we simply gotten used to hefty bills at the end of the evening? I want to emphasize that I’m not bashing restaurateurs here, as in: “How dare you charge these prices?”

As you know, our hearts are with the hospitality industry. But from a guest’s perspective, I found it remarkable that within a period of three years, the perception of costs can change so much. What do you think? And above all: if you get the chance, restaurant DS is an absolute recommendation.

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