Italian hummus
Most people heading to Italy still mainly go on holiday to Tuscany. But Puglia, the region at the very tip of the heel, is growing in popularity. Just like the food from this region, once influenced by the Moors.
Puglia (Apulia in English), a rugged and dry area, is dominated by kilometre-long rows of ancient olive trees in red soil. It is also known as ‘the undiscovered part of Italy’, although that is less true in the summer months on both coasts – those of the Adriatic and Ionian Seas. But in the fortified towns inland, you indeed hardly see any foreign tourists.
Beans
Over the centuries, Puglia has been influenced by many different peoples, including the Turks and the Greeks. And you can see that not only in the architecture, but also in the food.
The Arab influences in particular, a consequence of the presence of the Moors, can still be recognised. For example, in the use of chickpeas and beans.
Fave e cicoria: the Italian answer to hummus.
I ate an excellent pasta with chickpeas there, ciceri e tria. But perhaps my favourite dish from Puglia is fave e cicoria: a warm white-bean purée (hummus) drizzled with extra olive oil. And served on top – or alongside it – are cooked wild chicory leaves. A pleasantly bitter wild leafy vegetable that most resembles our endive.
One time I got fried breadcrumbs on top. Another time it was charred peppers, and yet another time a hot red sauce reminiscent of harissa.
By the way, you do not have to drive the more than 2,000 kilometres south to taste dishes from Puglia. Casa Sabatelli in Amsterdam specialises in the cuisine of this region.
Casa Sabatelli,
Kinkerstraat 230H
Amsterdam.
Image: Marjan Ippel et al.
