It’s not done, but we’re doing it anyway!

Wine and soup. That isn’t done, according to the classic rules. And they’re also the nightmare of every sommelier. Because those two don’t really like each other. A hearty, thick soup can still work. But with a freshly drawn, clear oxtail broth, you quickly run into trouble. Then you have to pull out all the stops for a good match. Miss WineLane lends a hand.

Wine always works!

Something liquid with something liquid does feel a little strange. Many food lovers don’t venture there anyway. They consider the combination of wine and soup not done. Nonsense, of course. Wine always works; sometimes you just need to look a little further.

A classic little broth may seem fleeting and delicate. But the flavour is actually powerful and layered. Thanks to the hours-long simmering of the vegetables and bones, with the gelatin from those bones in particular providing a pleasant richness and a full, coating mouthfeel.

The reason wines pair poorly with this liquid fare is that soup doesn’t like cold, roughness or acidity. Too much of one or the other quickly ruins the pairing. White wine—usually served chilled—is simply too cold for soup. If it also has some acidity, the soup will quickly come across as greasy. And most red wines completely overpower such a delicate dish in terms of texture and aroma.

We mainly know those mediocre little bottles of cooking Madeira. But this fortified wine from the Portuguese island can be truly delicious.

‘Have Some Madeira, M’Dear’
But fortunately, there are exceptions. Even within the rules of etiquette. What actually is done is a glass of Madeira. Especially if a splash has already gone into the soup. And that’s a good thing!

We mainly know those mediocre little bottles of cooking Madeira. But this fortified wine from the Portuguese island can be truly delicious. Its oxidative character may take some getting used to. That pronounced minerality, often smoky and nutty, is different from the average wine. But give it a try—it’s so delicious! Its distinctive, complex character comes from ageing with exposure to oxygen at high temperatures. A unique process in which the wine is essentially stewed.

There are different styles—depending on the grape and ageing period—but they all have a beautiful balance between ripeness and freshness. Sercial (dry)—or possibly Verdelho (medium dry)—works well with a broth like this. In any case, buy a good bottle from a wine shop. A regular bottle is much cheaper by comparison and, moreover, much tastier than one of those nasty little supermarket bottles. What’s more, Madeira— even after opening—stays good indefinitely thanks to the special heating process. At your next soup occasion, simply put the same bottle back on the table.

Hazelnuts, mushrooms, butter, caramel and vanilla—it’s all there.

Amontillado sherry

But perhaps the most beautiful match of all is an Amontillado sherry. This Spanish—also fortified—wine is salty and dry, but with a substantial body. Exactly what the soup’s richness craves. With fantastic complex aromas and flavours, which here too are partly the result of exposure to oxygen during ageing. Hazelnuts, mushrooms, butter, caramel and vanilla—it’s all there. Delicious with a soup like this. And its beautiful amber colour also happens to match that of its chaperone. How good can a pairing be! Serve the sherry—just like the Madeira, by the way—at room temperature. That way, it complements the warm soup best.

You can easily make oxtail broth yourself, by the way. Make a very large pot straight away and let it simmer for hours. Anything left over can be frozen for next time. To turn it into a delicious noodle soup, for example. And suddenly, a lightly (!) chilled Grüner Veltliner is a perfect match. Or simply the leftover Madeira or sherry. See? There are endless possibilities with soup!