Japantown on the Rhine

Düsseldorf is just across the border in Germany. But especially on Saturdays, the area around Hauptbahnhof and Hotel Nikko looks more like a Japanese enclave. Locally, it is known as ‘Japantown’. Düsseldorf is home to one of the largest Japanese communities in Europe.

Although most Japanese people in Düsseldorf live in the Buitenveldert of Düsseldorf, Niederkassel, Japantown is located in and around Immermannstrasse. Here you will not find red lanterns as a signpost, as you do in many Chinatowns. So you have to look carefully. But it is just like mushrooms in a forest: at first you think there is nothing there, and suddenly you see them everywhere. In this case: sushi bars, karaoke bars, Japanese gift and book shops, hairdressers, supermarkets, bakeries and, of course, restaurants. The latter are easiest to recognise because of the people waiting outside, guided into orderly queues by barriers.

Supermarkets

Do not leave Japantown without visiting one or more supermarkets. In addition to several Japanese ones, there is a large Korean supermarket. And although we can get a lot at the toko in the Netherlands, the selection is more extensive than at home. From vintage soy sauces, sake and shochu (strong liquor) to sesame dressing and a vegetable soup ‘sausage’. And, of course, household items and gadgets such as a mould for making onigiri (filled rice balls). On Saturdays, stalls selling freshly made snacks, onigiri and taiyaki (filled fish-shaped cake) are set up in front of most supermarkets.

Shochiku

, Immermannstrasse 15.

Dae-Yang

, with its own fresh fish department, Immermannstrasse 21.

Hanaro

, Korean supermarket with its own butcher’s shop and deli, Immermannstrasse 45C.

Bakeries

Bakery My Heart

, Marienstrasse 26. Clean little shop, popular well beyond the German border, partly because of its doughnut-like filled rolls. Try the takoyaki roll filled with squid. And, of course, the sticky-rice mochi.

Bäckerei Taka

, Immermannstrasse 18. Smaller than My Heart, but here too savoury and sweet Japanese delicacies are displayed in baskets. Such as melon pan, a bun with a cookie crust that looks like a melon, but does not taste of melon.

Eating

Around twenty years ago, Japanese food was something rare in the Netherlands. Back then, the selection in Düsseldorf was exclusive and of high quality. By now, Japanese food is also reasonably easy to find here, and you no longer necessarily have to go to Düsseldorf for the quality. One difference: in the Netherlands, Japanese kitchens are mainly staffed by Chinese cooks. In Düsseldorf, they are staffed only by Japanese cooks.

Waraku – Einfach Essen

, Immermannstrasse 27. Waraku’s fresh onigiri come in ingenious packaging that keeps them fresh. The range includes vegan and vegetarian options as well as meat and fish. Also: bento boxes to take away and own-brand tea.

Na Ni Wa Noodles & Soup

, Oststrasse 55. Japantown’s longest queues are outside this establishment, which has even put waiting benches on the pavement. Also noteworthy: the large outdoor dining terrace. Across the street is:

Na Ni Wa Sushi & More

, Klosterstrasse 68A. If, after a wait of around half an hour, you are lucky enough to get a seat at the bar, you can watch the chefs prepare your sushi through the display case filled with fresh fish.

Yabase sushibar

, Klosterstrasse 70. A little more expensive and exclusive, and therefore visited more by Japanese expats than by Düsseldorf residents. Be sure to try the nigiri made with uni (sea urchin).

Sakura

If you have time to spare, head to the Japanese residential neighbourhood in Niederkassel to visit the Japanese garden with its temple. It is especially a must-go during sakura season (the flowering period of the Japanese cherry tree, around April).
Eko-Haus der Japanischen Kultur, Brüggener Weg 6.

Image: Marjan Ippel