Lisbon: the rhythm of the city

Lisbon: the oldest city in Western Europe and a top destination for anyone who does little else while travelling than eat and drink. Those who follow the rhythm of the city start their day at the local pasteleria with uma bica and a pastel; an espresso and a pastry. It could be worse, right?

Not much later, around the end of the morning, Lisboetas traditionally swap sweet for savoury, and you can find salgados; small snacks and bites, such as salted-fish fritters and prawn pastries, on every street corner. They are best enjoyed standing at the bar or counter. Those who really want to do it properly order a lambreta, a small glass of ice-cold beer, to go with it.

Prefer to stay closer to home? Then go and eat at Entrepot very soon.

The feeling of being at home

According to Portuguese chef Nuno Mendes, author of the recently published book Lisboeta, it is precisely those little things that make everyday life so special. ‘The word Lisboeta means ‘person from Lisbon’, but also stands for the way of life, the tradition and the feeling of being at home,’ Mendes writes in his tribute to the city and its inhabitants.

Eating whatever is on the menu

The Portuguese love nothing more than eating together; a tradition you experience every day around lunchtime in one of the countless tascas, small neighbourhood restaurants, found throughout the city. Every local has their own favourite, where for less than twenty euros you can eat a three-course meal of whatever is on the menu.

Don’t be put off by that flickering fluorescent tube on the ceiling; see it instead as a sign from above that you have come to the right place. The walls covered in football shirts, flags and scarves in Lisbon have the same prophetic gift. In places like these, Mendes is happiest when served a well-prepared feijoda, a stew with beans, cabbage and (salted) meat. Add a piece of crusty bread and a glass of red wine, and leave it at that.

Late night snack

You’ll find these and many more dishes in Lisboeta. The book is organised according to the city’s eating rhythm and continues after lunch with small dishes, dinner, desserts and sandwiches. Because although ending with something sweet is preferred in Lisbon, when it gets really late the sandwiches fly off the counter. The country’s best-selling sandwich is the bifana; the Portuguese counterpart to a hamburger. Naturally, you’ll find the recipe in the book. Good night.

Title: Lisboeta
Author: Nuno Mendes
Publisher: Veltman Uitgevers
Price: €30.-