Our Man in the Province Is in the Christmas Spirit
He ate out several times a week, always searching for the tastiest herring, most enjoyable wine, juiciest hamburger or best meat thermometer. But six months ago, journalist Marcel Langedijk traded Amsterdam for the Province. Is it manageable there for a lover of good food and drink? Definitely. Although he does sometimes get a little tired of all those wine pairings. He has better ideas. Pufferfish and sake, anyone?
Living in the provinces is wonderful. The space, the peace and quiet, the time you have left over because there isn’t a distracting café on every street corner. I’ve spent that time experimenting with Chinese eggs and pufferfish, because fondue at Christmas is delicious, but things can be more adventurous. Hence: 10 suggestions for a tasty Christmas.
Cheddar & wasabi beer
For anyone who thought the Japanese had a monopoly on wasabi: think again. The same goes for the things you can do with it, by the way. Wasabi is wonderfully delicious in a creamy version with your sushi or sashimi, but it also works remarkably well as an ingredient in beer. Rosabi, an IPA from the American Dogfish brewery, gets not only a lovely bitterness from the addition of wasabi, but also a devilishly hot aftertaste. Brilliant with mature cheddar.
Pufferfish & sake
They call it fugu in Japan, this pufferfish, and it’s widely eaten there. In itself, it doesn’t have a particularly distinctive flavour, yet quite a few two- and three-Michelin-star establishments in the country have it on the menu. That probably has something to do with the fact that its preparation requires great precision. If the chef makes a mistake, the diner dies a tragic death; all your muscles fail. Your heart too. So don’t think about it too much, and drink away any fear with a glass of sake. Or better yet, make that the whole bottle.
Greek red wine with steak & kidney pie
Those who know their stuff—and for convenience I count myself among them—call Xinomavro the Barolo of Greece. It’s a seductive powerhouse with plenty of punch. Meaty, yes, that too, with lovely earthy notes. And it goes exceptionally well with another classic: steak & kidney pie. Intense, and not a combination to try on a sunny Greek terrace while being lashed by the sun, but if you bring back a bottle during a city break, you’ll be all set for Christmas.
Whisky & Indian food
Before you get the wrong idea: the intention isn’t for you to wash down takeaway tikka masala with half a bottle of Jack Daniel’s. To each their own, of course, and it’s still a free country, but I’m talking about somewhat subtler combinations. One that’s been on our wish list for a while: a haggis samosa with one—or, go on, two—glasses of whisky. Preferably an Indian one—yes, they make whisky there too—such as the twelve-year-old Amrut.
Beer & doughnuts
Admittedly, it sounds downright dreadful. But just as you can get the strangest kinds of beer these days (let me remind you of wasabi beer), there are also plenty of new doughnut variations to be found. The most exciting one I could find was the salt & vinegar doughnut paired with a bottle of Five Points’ Pale Ale. I’d keep a pack of Rennie nearby, if I were you.
Tea & cheese
It’s hardly new anymore: a tea pairing instead of a wine pairing with dinner. Oddly enough, it works perfectly, especially with a cuisine influenced by Asia (easy to digest) combined with Asian teas. But it can get even stranger: jasmine tea with Roquefort. The cheese melts in the heat of the tea, creating an almost erotic experience. Believe me.
Gin & apple pie
Yes, okay, this sounds downright ridiculous, but it really isn’t. In fact, it’s pretty damn brilliant. Because while apple pie may still simply be apple pie—and there’s nothing wrong with that—gin is nowadays something more than just gin. The number of varieties is almost infinite, and there seems to be no end to new gin inventions. And then the combination of gin and apple pie suddenly makes a lot more sense, especially if you serve your lukewarm slice of pie with Victoria’s Rhubarb Gin. It makes me considerably happier than that obligatory cappuccino.
Fries & champagne
French fries are back after never really going away. And rightly so. Especially when the fried sticks are made from the finest—organic!—potatoes and accompanied by homemade sauces. In that case, serving a glass of bubbly alongside them isn’t strange at all. Especially when you know that the bubbles cleanse your palate. To be honest, it’s remarkable that we’re only discovering this now. After speciality beers and kapsalon, I expect a glorious rise of the Krug fries (named after one of the most expensive champagnes in the world).
Riesling & venison
Perhaps you think I’ve now definitively lost my mind, but the opposite is true. In fact, the Germans have been eating venison with Riesling for years, and they’re absolutely right: Riesling goes exceptionally well with noble venison, especially Spätlese. You can serve the meat with a Riesling gravy, or liven up the gravy with some sweetish herbs, bringing out the venison’s sweetness beautifully. It’s absolutely brilliant with slowly grilled carrots drizzled with a little honey.
Balut egg & meiguilu jiu
The best for last. Sambal on the side? No need; this originally Asian delicacy of a fertilised duck egg with an almost fully developed embryo, which is steamed until cooked, is hot enough. The rest of the world looks at this dish with horror and disgust, but the protein-rich snack is said to be a powerful aphrodisiac… Wash it down with a generous splash of meiguilu jiu (Chinese rose liquor) and the night is yours!
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