Pasta puttanesca is the perfect weeknight meal, and here’s how to make it
This recipe for spaghetti alla puttanesca from the early 20th century is one of the most characteristic dishes of the flavorful Neapolitan cuisine. The wildest rumors circulate about its origins, as we read in the wonderful cookbook Tasting Italy.
Its ancestor is said to be marinara sauce (olive oil, olives and capers). Puttanesca as we know it today did not appear until the 1950s. But why is the name of this recipe associated with a prostitute (puttana)?
Puttana in puttanesca
Some say that the vivid colors of this dish (the green of the parsley, the red of the tomatoes and the purple of the olives) are reminiscent of the brightly colored outfits worn by prostitutes.
Others point to the invention of a street prostitute born in France who, walking the sidewalks of Naples’ Quartieri Spagnoli, her home district, brought her native Provence back to life with the ingredients that make up the recipe.
It is generally believed that the dish owes its name to the fact that it is easy to prepare in just a few minutes by Neapolitan prostitutes (or their madams, depending on the scenario) to lure customers with the enticing aroma of the sauce or to help the customer recover after sex.
With or without anchovies
Since the beginning of the 20th century, there have been two schools, each defending its own version: the Neapolitan version, which is served exclusively with long pasta, contains no anchovies; the Lazio version, served with penne or spaghetti, does contain anchovies. These days, it is sometimes served with anchovies or even tuna in Naples.
How to make pasta puttanesca
- Place the spaghetti in a large pan of boiling salted water and cook until al dente.
- Heat 4 tablespoons of olive oil in a large frying pan. Want to make it creamier? Replace the 4 tablespoons of oil with 30 g of butter, as allowed in some Italian variations.
- Finely chop the rinsed and dried anchovy fillets, followed by the garlic. Add them to the pan and let them sweat briefly before adding the peeled, crushed tomatoes, capers and chili pepper. Finally, add the pitted and roughly chopped black olives. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
- Simmer over high heat for 6 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain the pasta and add it to the pan with 2 tablespoons of the cooking water and the remaining olive oil. Stir briefly over high heat, sprinkle with the chopped flat-leaf parsley and serve immediately.
Title: Tasting Italy
Author: François-Régis Gaudry & friends
Price: €59,99
Publisher Lannoo
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