Q&A Robin Berben of Café Sjiek
Café Sjiek has been a household name in culinary Maastricht for decades. You can go there for local classics such as zoervleis (made with horse meat), blood sausage and sauerkraut, among other things. All with good wine, and if you stay long enough, a dance too. Curious to find out what owner Robin Berben has tried to eat very often, but really cannot stomach?
Which food trend should we stop immediately?
All the unnecessary frills. People should just cook without all the nonsense.
Most memorable dining experience?
There are many. In Maastricht, it was at Sofa and Beluga. In Amsterdam, I enjoy going to Rijsel, Bordewijk, le Hollandais and Bord’eau. Last year in Lisbon, I also had a fantastic meal at Belcanto, by chef José Avillez.
Favorite drink?
Wine, lots and lots of wine.
Essential gadget for the kitchen?
A good attitude. Chefs need to be enthusiastic and motivated to create something beautiful. If they are, you can taste it in the dishes.
What would you never eat again?
Tripe. I have tried it countless times, but it is more or less the only thing I really cannot get on with.
Which country is your favorite when it comes to food?
Italy. There, what you see is what you get. It is all about pure ingredients; often there are only two, three or four components. For example, mozzarella with tomato—there are so few ingredients that the products have to be exceptionally good. You cannot hide.
What should everyone have eaten at least once?
Risotto with white truffle.
What is the best product from the supermarket?
Well… I really do not have an answer to this question. I hardly ever go there.
What is still on your food wish list?
Paul Bocuse in Lyon. That is where it all began, after all; he was the first to break with the tradition of thick sauces and heavy dishes. He was at the beginning of nouvelle cuisine. We started in ’82, and at that time it was truly hugely innovative. Somehow, I have still never eaten there. The man is 91 now, so if you ever want to eat there, it has to be now.
Which cookbook should everyone have on their shelf?
De Dikke van Dam. What I find very important is theoretical knowledge. De Dikke van Dam covers all kinds of topics and can fill three or four pages on potatoes or artichokes alone. You learn a great deal from it.
What do you like to make at home when you want to eat quickly and well?
I have to be honest: my wife usually cooks then. Often a simple pasta with scampi or something, delicious.
Which dish do you have no self-control around?
Crème brûlée.
