Q&A with Jin Hu
Recently, I had an extensive dinner at GIN NEO, hidden in the center of Amsterdam. The owner and executive chef is Jin Hu, and every month he develops a new six-course menu. So what I ate, you might not get on your plate at all. What is certain, however, is that the foundation is French, with Asian and Dutch influences. Time to get to know this autodidact better.
Which food trend should we put an immediate stop to?
I don’t believe in food trends; everything that has been given love and attention should be respected.
Most memorable dining experience?
Restaurant Saturne in Paris, actually my first introduction to bistronomy years ago. The foundation was French, the influences were Japanese and the presentation was Scandinavian. A daily changing menu, bold food with feminine curves and tension.
Favorite drink?
Wine! Bubbles, white, red, I really don’t care as long as it’s exceptionally well made. I do have a preference for Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Crisp, elegant, depth, minerality—that’s what makes me happy.
Essential gadget for the kitchen?
A blowtorch. You can use it to light your stove, and once—when literally everything in the kitchen went out (gas, electricity)—I used it to heat small pans with oil and butter so I could still cook my vegetables, fish and meat.
I spread this on almost everything; after every bite, you immediately feel like having the next one.
What would you never eat again?
I’m allergic to walnuts; my throat closes up. So I don’t want to eat those anymore. Other than that, I haven’t had any horrifying experiences with food.
Which country is your favorite when it comes to food?
For me, comfort food is Eastern food—not so much one country, but rather the continent of Asia.
What should everyone have eaten at least once?
Peking duck with pancakes or the Vietnamese noodle soup Phở. Both are so irresistibly delicious at any time of day.
What is the best supermarket product?
Heinz Sandwich Spread. I spread this on almost everything; after every bite, you immediately feel like having the next one.
Dim sum—I could actually eat it every day and at any time of day.
What is still on your food wish list?
For me, Magnus Nilsson of Fäviken in Sweden is truly a boss. Courage, character and a completely individual vision in a location where I think even the navigation system doesn’t work.
Which cookbook should everyone have on their shelf?
James Martin’s dessert book. With desserts, you always have to be precise about proportions, so a little book of fixed recipes like that can never hurt.
What do you like to make at home when you want to eat quickly and well?
A quick meal at home for me is a good stir-fry. I usually see what’s in the fridge: a bit of freestyle vegetable-meat-fish mix, a little ponzu, a little sriracha. Simple, delicious and ready in no time.
Which dish do you have no self-control around?
Dim sum—I could actually eat it every day and at any time of day. Especially xiao long bao (Shanghai soup dumplings) with ginger and vinegar. In Amsterdam—where I live—there is only one place where you can eat these at their best: Sea Palace.
I also can’t stay away from white asparagus. Basically just a little salted butter, lemon juice and a glass of Riesling Spätlese.
