Recipe: Côte de boeuf with béarnaise, just like they make it at restaurant Rijsel

Amsterdam restaurant Rijsel published a cookbook to mark its tenth anniversary, featuring the well-known recipes of Rijsel classics. From cheese croquettes to this juicy côte de boeuf with béarnaise. 

Pieter: “Côte de boeuf. At Rijsel, we even devoted a special night to it: côte de boeuf night. From 7:00 p.m. until 3:00 a.m., you can eat as much côte de boeuf as you like. My butcher Frans spends several weeks selecting the best cuts of meat; the most beautifully marbled pieces hang waiting for our guests – usually, we have around a hundred kilos in the house for such an evening.”

For this recipe: “Ask your favorite butcher whether they have a piece of côte de boeuf with beautifully continuous fat marbling. My rule is: meat with beautiful marbling may be served medium-rare to medium (because the little veins of fat melt, keeping the meat tender and juicy). Leaner, less-marbled meat should always be served rare to medium-rare. And above all, don’t forget to let your meat rest after cooking. At least 10 minutes in a warm place (± 50 °C).”

How to make côte de boeuf with béarnaise

• First, allow the meat to come fully to room temperature. Salt the meat on both sides and let it absorb the salt for no more than half an hour. Preheat the oven to 220 °C.
• For the béarnaise, place the gastrique, egg yolks, and pepper and salt to taste in a heatproof bowl. Heat a small layer of water in a pan and bring it to a boil. Place the bowl on top and make sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Whisk the mixture until light and cooked. Note: light does not necessarily mean cooked! Remove the bowl from the pan and tap it; if the egg mixture jiggles like a pudding, it is cooked.
• Add the melted butter in a thin stream while continuing to whisk vigorously, until a beautiful, thick sauce forms. Place the bowl on a damp cloth so it stays firmly in place; it makes things a little easier. Add the chervil and tarragon at the very end. Keep the sauce covered in a warm place (± 50 °C).
• Depending on its thickness, cook the meat for 5 minutes on each side on the barbecue or in a pan over very high heat (and: open the window, turn off the fire alarm). Cook for a total of 10 minutes for medium-rare and 15 minutes for medium. You can always have a quick ‘peek’ by pushing the meat slightly to the side and looking between the two muscle sections. Use a meat thermometer if you feel it’s necessary – the temperature should be between 50 and 55 °C. Cover the meat with aluminum foil and let it rest in a warm place for 10 minutes. Then place the meat in the preheated oven for another 3 minutes.
• Remove the meat from the oven and carve it by cutting against the grain. Serve the meat on a large platter together with the watercress and béarnaise.

Title: Rijsel
Author: Pieter Smits and Iwan Driessen
Price: €34,99
Publisher: Fontaine

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