Snacking Along the Highway

It’s the eternal recurring problem on the highway: you’re hungry, but of course you didn’t buy anything decent for the road. Then you can get off at the A-whatever exit in the hope that you’ll find something edible in the first village you come across. Or you can try your luck at the roadside restaurant. That may turn out well, but it may not.

Dutch people speeding along Italy’s motorways swear by Autogrill. This classic motorway stop serves, among other things, espresso that keeps you awake for hours, panini and pastries. All in typically Italian chaos. Look no further: Autogrill has it all.

Five brothers

Especially in the southern provinces, but also in the north, Autogrill competes with the roadside restaurants run by the five Sarni brothers. You can also find their establishments – from pizzerias to yogurterias – in some cities.

The zucchini pizza is every bit as good as a wood-fired Neapolitan one.

And yes, Autogrill is fun. But walk into a Sarni and you won’t know what hits you. The staff, like fully trained pizzaioli, knead pizza dough by hand, then top it with fresh seasonal vegetables, Parma ham cut straight from the leg, mozzarella and even fries. Nothing is pre-packaged; everything is fresh.
The zucchini pizza (courgette) with sea salt and rosemary is every bit as good as an artisanal wood-fired pizza from a Neapolitan insider spot.

Arancini

There is also a ridiculously large selection of topped and/or filled panini, of which the one with, once again, fries (panino cotoletta e patate julienne) is the most eye-catching. The enormous crostini with fresh tomatoes wouldn’t look out of place on a serious restaurant table either.

There are also arancini (or supplì) in the fully stocked display cases. These Sicilian fried, breaded rice balls or cones, filled with ingredients such as saffron, mozzarella and ham, cost € 2,- and are guaranteed to make a full meal.

Frolla Napoletana

If you still have room (which is virtually impossible), there is a whole selection of pastries and sweets, from honey strudel to frolla Napoletana (a pudding-filled pastry from Naples). From practically every Italian region, there is something waiting behind the glass.

The only difference from a ‘regular’ restaurant: you eat standing at the bar or counter table from paper plates, among truck drivers and tourists. Just like life itself.

You can find Sarni along many Italian motorways.

Image: Marjan Ippel