Food

Staycation #4: from France to Italy

terras glouglou

Whether it’s from a street food market in Vietnam or straight from the French hypermarket: food on holiday always tastes that little bit better. This summer I’m staying home in Amsterdam, but luckily there are plenty of places where you can imagine yourself abroad for a little while. I’m taking you along on my staycation, and this week we’re heading to De Pijp.

Foto van culinair journalist Emma de Thouars

To the intersection of Tweede van der Helststraat and Van Ostadestraat, to be precise. Because there, you can travel from France to Italy in one go. Amsterdam has plenty of lovely little squares, but every time I cycle past this one, it somehow looks extra foreign and inviting. Even though this intersection isn’t officially a square at all. I don’t know whether that’s because of the French-looking terrace of wine bar GlouGlou, or the people across the street eating gelato on the bench in front of Massimo Gelato. But either way, you’ll definitely want to settle in here.

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Hearty snacks

Bars serving nothing but natural wine are no longer a rarity, but GlouGlou was one of the first. From the very beginning, it was the place to be for (natural) wine lovers and local residents alike. Everyone knows GlouGlou, yet sitting here still feels like discovering a hidden gem. Alongside a whole host of natural wines, the menu features hearty French snacks. I always order the rillettes and tinned sardines, both served with really good bread, but you can’t go wrong with the (snack) board here. Charcuterie, cheese or snails—it doesn’t matter. Make sure you sit facing the street, because this is one of the nicest places in Amsterdam to people-watch with a glass of wine in your hand.

Creamy gelato

Few things feel more like being on holiday than walking to the nearest ice-cream shop in your flip-flops after dinner. The walk to Massimo Gelato is fairly short, but a gelato here is the perfect way to end your afternoon on the terrace. The gelato is wonderfully creamy and almost stringy as a result—unbelievably delicious. My favourites are hazelnut and pistachio, for which Massimo sources the nuts from Piedmont and Sicily respectively. Only the best of the best is good enough to go into the gelato, and they also work exclusively with seasonal fruit. Eat your gelato outside the shop or walk around the block, and your balmy summer evening is complete.

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