Steak Tartare According to Prinz Wolf

Steak tartare is one of those classics that makes everyone happy – with the exception of the occasional raw-meat hater. The ideal lunch dish combined with a green salad and a good glass of wine, or to eat as a light dinner with crispy thin fries.

Every self-respecting brasserie or hotel restaurant has its own variation on the menu. In the capital, I always enjoy eating it at Le Garage, where the late Joop Braakhekke always finished it with a few drops of cognac. But the brasserie at the Conservatorium Hotel (once number 1 in the Parool steak tartare test) and Occo (The Dylan Hotel) also excel at the art of preparing a good steak tartare.

Starring steak tartare

Recently, I went looking for steak tartare again for lunch. I ended up at Prinz Wolf, which opened at the end of 2017 and is located in a narrow building on Amsterdam’s Prinsengracht. The name is a combination of the address and the name of chef Micheal Wolf, whom we also know from the pleasant Wolf Atelier. He calls his establishment a ‘tartaria’, starring steak tartare and several tartare variations. He got the idea at food hall Time Out Market in Lisbon, where it has been a successful concept for some time.

Prinz Klassieker

The steak tartare (made from beef) listed at Wolf is called ‘Prinz Klassieker’ and effortlessly earns a place on my list of favourite addresses in the capital for steak tartare. Beautifully creamy but not mashed too finely, allowing the tender beef to retain its bite; after all, you don’t want filet américain. Deliciously spicy thanks to the well-balanced mustard mayonnaise sauce, but not too spicy either, so you can still taste the meat. For the salty, briny accent, no anchovies are used, but delicious herring roe. The subtly charred skins of smoked pearl onions provide the fresh, sour element that no steak tartare should be without.

Perfectly presented

Unlike in classic establishments, the steak tartare is not prepared at the table here or brought to the guest beforehand with a small spoon to check whether it is seasoned enough. Although thanks to the assured execution, that is not necessary at all. The dish is served fully composed with sprigs of watercress, paper-thin crispy croutons and a perfectly poached egg with a runny yolk. The presentation on beautifully decorated glass plates is a feast for the eyes.

On the menu

Alongside this classic, there are four tartare variations on the menu: Asian (beef, dai dai, sugar snaps, wasabi), salmon (mango, chilli, coriander), tuna (daikon, jalapeño, coriander) and aubergine (pearl couscous, crème fraîche, sweet-and-sour radish). All tartare dishes can be ordered in three different portions of 85, 125 or 150 grams; a good option if you also want to try other dishes.

The clear menu also includes a selection of bar bites and various side dishes, including six types of oysters, grilled vegetables, fries and romaine lettuce. The wine list features many wines by the glass and a wide selection of cocktails and sparkling wines: from cava to vintage Dom Pérignon. Tartaria Prinz Wolf is open for lunch and dinner, Monday through Saturday. The kitchen is open until 11 p.m.

Tartaria Prinz Wolf
Prinsengracht 411