Dining at Wolf Atelier
Wolf Atelier
Westerdoksplein 20
Amsterdam
T: 020 344 6428
Unusual name for a restaurant?
Wolf is the name of Michael Wolf, the 31-year-old chef who also wields the scepter at the well-known Amsterdam restaurant Envy. A fine man, who has already proven that he can cook up a storm. Previously worked at unmissable establishments such as Sergio Herman’s Oud Sluis*** and Vila Joya*. Esquire tipped him last year as one of the most promising young chefs of the moment. That he now has his own restaurant (part of the ever-expanding hospitality network of Supperclub owner Bert van Leden) is, in his own words, ‘a boyhood dream come true.”
And the atelier?
Michael is eager and keen to learn. He regularly experiments with new dishes. Guests can help decide which dishes will definitively make it onto the menu.
Where is it?
The restaurant is located in a monumental railway bridge over the water, a five-minute walk from Amsterdam Central Station.
What is it like inside?
You walk up a steel fire escape and find yourself in an industrial space, a kind of glass block high above the water. Tall glass windows all around. Wherever you sit, you look out over the water and, in the evening, the lights across the IJ. After arriving, you can take a seat at the central bar for a glass of bubbles served in a coupe instead of a flute, just the way we like it. The eye-catcher is the large open kitchen, where you can watch the chef and his team in action. If you choose the chef’s table, actually the chef’s bar, you can literally watch the kitchen team’s every move from your bar stool. A glance at our fellow guests reveals a striking number of couples and many attractive, well-dressed people.
What are we eating?
The cooking style reveals inspiration Wolf gained from his mentor Sergio Herman: a preference for shellfish and fish, and the use of fresh ingredients and acids. Light and subtle. Such as the very successful hamachi ceviche we ordered. You know, that Japanese fish which is now listed in many restaurants as a sustainable and slightly fattier alternative to endangered tuna. The fish is lightly ‘cooked’ in an orange vinaigrette, almost raw as it should be. The fantastic roasted langoustines are combined with cucumber and matchsticks of fresh, tart Granny Smith apple. Sweet and sour in good balance. The dish ‘mussel in acid’ – with carrot cream, baby carrots, pearl onions and a crisp element that brings back the mussel flavor – also has the right notes and flavor combination. The highlight of the evening is still to come: the pan-fried foie gras (we couldn’t resist) with pickled deep-red ripe figs, currants and a kind of meringue made from, once again, fig. The foie gras is perfectly cooked and combines wonderfully with the delicately sweet flavors of the fig. The dessert of rice pudding with vanilla ice cream is actually a little too much after that.
How is the service?
Skilled, attentive and friendly. They run themselves ragged on this busy evening, but keep everything perfectly under control. Also pleasant: the sommelier does not get lost in long-winded stories and proves to be a reliable adviser – with his choice, made at our request, of a pleasantly affordable matching white wine and, on another occasion, a pleasantly affordable matching red.
What will it cost?
Wolf Atelier works with clear fixed à la carte prices: 13 euros for starters, 22 euros for mains and 8 euros for dessert. You can also combine dishes in a four-course menu for 39 euros or a five-course menu for 45 euros. Excellent prices for the quality and setting provided.
Recommended?
Absolutely. Wolf offers an atmosphere, location and appearance worthy of a world city. Great deephouse lounge music and the animated buzz of the guests and activity in the kitchen create the right vibe. The quality and originality of the food are a major plus. Every detail has been considered. With aperitif, wine, coffee and tip, two people will spend a little under 200 euros, but in return you get a whole evening taken care of. A top-notch place if you have something to celebrate and are ready for a festive night out.
Text: Marcus Polman
Images: Wolf Atelier
