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Tasty Grape #1: Tempranillo

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There are thousands of different grape varieties, and every year more are added through new crossings or (re)discoveries. Which grapes should you really get to know? In the ‘tasty grape’ series, I share my favorites, with wine tips. This time: the Spanish tempranillo.

Foto van culinair journalist Sharon van Lokhorst

Blue teeth and purple lips

The first time I attended a professional wine tasting, I was horrified. Who were all those people shamelessly walking around with blue teeth and purple lips? And why were they so cheerful? It turned out to be because of the macho wine Tempranillo. Because it does something to you.

Viva España!

Many countries have their own red superstar. Italians have nebbiolo, Australians have shiraz and Spain has tempranillo. And just saying that name makes me happy, although after a few glasses I do laugh with my mouth closed. The great thing about Tempranillo is its enormous diversity of flavors. It ranges from fresh and fruity light summer wines to full-bodied, thick, concentrated flavor bombs.

Recognizing the style

Muy handy: the label gives you an indication—the style is designated from light to heavy as Joven, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. You can see that diversity reflected in the price, from affordable everyday wine to mucho dinero.

Rioja: Europe’s punk-rock region

Over the centuries, quite a bit of mutating has gone on with that tempranillo in Spain; by now, more than 550 different clones of the grape have been counted! The classic tempranillo region is Rioja: Spain’s ultimate red gem. The tastiest Tempranillos from Rioja are often a blend with other grapes, including garnacha. With its headstrong and innovative winemakers and extravagant architecture, it is Europe’s punk-rock region.

Also impressive: Ribera del Duero

Another famous tempranillo breeding ground is Ribera del Duero. This wine region, 120 kilometers north of Madrid, is five times smaller than Rioja in area, but it is a formidable competitor. Tempranillo can withstand heat and drought, which comes in handy here, because the climate is extreme: scorching-hot summers, freezing-cold winters and a huge difference between day and night temperatures. Combined with the altitude, the grape, also known here as ‘tinto fino’ or ‘tinto país’, develops enormous complexity of flavors.

Outside Spain

But there’s more, because tempranillo has slowly but surely conquered the world. By now, you can also find it in Australia, Argentina, New Zealand and Chile.

Wine tips!

Serving you: three knockout wines, increasing in price.

Salentein Portillo Tempranillo, Mendoza, Argentina

Because it has a screw cap, you think: pop it open, pour, drink. But wait. Hold on. Let this Argentinian breathe for a moment after pouring, otherwise it can come across a little stiff. Give it some air and you have a delicious, smooth wine. My perfect weekday wine with pasta in tomato sauce. With or without meat, it’s guaranteed to be a success. Also great at the weekend, by the way: as an aperitif with Spanish chorizo, or for a Mexican fiesta, complete with oven-baked taco chips (naturally covered in salsa sauce and melted cheese!) and burritos with beans and chicken. And at less than ten euros, the price-to-quality ratio is excellent.

Cruz de Alba Crianza, Ribera Del Duero, Spain

For just under twenty euros, you get a very classy example. Pour it, swirl it gently, wait a moment and only then taste. An aroma to drive you wild and a finish that stretches all the way to Madrid. Its power and finesse make it a true food wine. A piece of (grilled) red meat, for example, but also grilled green asparagus or a delicious chunk of aged cheese. Don’t be alarmed by your black teeth. It’s worth it, believe me.

Ramón Bilbao Mirto, Rioja, Spain

Pour it and let it sit for a while, because I can’t say it often enough: Tempranillos are wines that take a moment to come out of their shell and only then reveal their true nature. In this case: macho, powerful, complex, concentrated. Open it after a long walk in the woods. Take off your shoes, put on your sweatpants, flop onto the sofa, Netflix (Money Heist!), a snack board on the side (aged hard Spanish goat’s or sheep’s cheese, Jamón Iberico de Bellota or other Spanish ham) and then enjoy a long dinner with grilled lamb chops with garlic and rosemary. Or pork belly with a Spanish tortilla. Saludos, amigo mío!

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