The Italian restaurant TOZI has been a firm editorial favorite for years—and this is why
People often ask me: what is a truly delicious Italian restaurant in Amsterdam? TOZI is always high on my list. Because of the wonderful Italian atmosphere, the friendly service, the open kitchen, the wines (oh, that Soave!) and, of course, the divine dishes. If I may give you a tip: go and order the lamb ragù pappardelle. Be warned, though: you’ll want to lick your fingers clean.
TOZI at the Park Plaza Vondelpark in Amsterdam-Zuid has been a favorite restaurant among locals and tourists for years. The dishes are made to share; the name TOZI means ‘a group of friends’ in the Venetian dialect. I love shared dining; it gives you the chance to try as many different things as possible. The downside: most dishes are so delicious that you actually won’t want to share them…
Zucchini Fritti
Every so often, TOZI changes its menu. Luckily, true classics remain, such as the Zucchini Fritti: zucchini cut into matchsticks, dipped in a light batter and then fried. A little salt on top, and delicious. The homemade Focaccia bread is also excellent and comes with various toppings, from red onion to Italian herbs. It’s gone in no time—so fluffy, with such a perfect crunchy crust; just try to resist it.
Small but seriously good
The small meat dishes are also exceptionally good. In my opinion, the carpaccio scores a 10+; the beef is incredibly tender and finished with pieces of hazelnut, pear and Pecorino cheese. The only downside: it’s on the small side. The same goes for the vitello tonnato, a beautiful dish to look at. Not thick slices of veal covered with a thick layer of creamy tuna mayonnaise, as it is often served, but very thinly sliced veal, rolled into little roses with a subtle tuna sauce inside. Absolutely delicious!
Delicious fall dish: lamb ragù pappardelle
TOZI has also added a number of fall dishes to the menu. And believe me: the lamb ragù pappardelle is the dish that will have you racing to TOZI. Pappardelle are long, wide ribbons of pasta; the word comes from the Italian pappare, meaning to wolf down or devour. And that is exactly what you’ll want to do when a steaming plate of pappardelle with lamb ragù is placed in front of you. As befits Italian pasta, the pappardelle is perfectly al dente, and the lamb ragù sauce is sublime. So creamy, so comforting, truly irresistible. The dish is finished with Pecorino pepato, a hard Italian sheep’s cheese with black peppercorns added to the curd. The cheese is less salty than Pecorino Romano and slightly spicier than Parmesan. It gives just the right kick to a dish that is wonderfully subtle and mellow on its own.
Oh, that Soave!
You don’t need to look at the (well-organized) wine list; you can immediately ask for the Soave Classico Netrroir from Cantina Mainente. In 1927, Soave was one of the first Italian wine regions to be demarcated in order to safeguard the quality of its wines. ‘Soave Classico’ refers to this original production zone. It lies behind the centuries-old, picturesque village of Soave, in the Veneto region, around 20 kilometers east of Verona. The soil in the area is partly volcanic and partly packed with calcareous organisms. And you can taste that! A good Soave is powerful, intense and layered, while the wine’s subtlety is ensured by ever-present acidity that makes your mouth water… And the grape? In any case, garganega, often on its own or in a blend. Soave Classico Netrroir is exactly what you hope for when ordering a Soave. Layered, refined and unbelievably enticing. And the great thing is that this wine is delicious with just about everything: from fish and meat dishes to rich, fatty dishes such as the Zucchini Fritti, which this wine handles perfectly well.
Black Angus Bavette from the grill
The Black Angus Bavette, served with baby potatoes and a small salad, is also meant to be shared, but this time it really is a generous dish. Bavette is the thick strip of meat from the flank of the cow. Because bavette has so much flavor, very little needs to be done to it. At TOZI, they understand that; the bavette is grilled and dressed with a subtle, non-spicy chimichurri-style green dressing. With a beautiful grilled flavor and cooked to perfection, this is a truly fantastic dish. The salad, as simple as it is effective, almost eats like candy: red endive leaves, called radicchio rosso in Italy, with a mildly bitter flavor lightly dressed with very gentle olive oil.
Tournedos to die for
The meat dishes are excellent across the board, as the tournedos also proves. Tournedos is steak cut from the tenderloin, and because it is not ‘working meat,’ it is naturally very tender. Tournedos is often the star of the dish and needs little embellishment. At TOZI, that is no exception; the tournedos is served with mashed potatoes and baby carrots in various colors. The meat is silky soft and incredibly tender, and then there’s that delicious gravy… Pure enjoyment!
Velvety tiramisu
We’re always very happy with the desserts here too. Naturally, tiramisu is on the menu, because an Italian restaurant without tiramisu is a bit like Messi without a ball. Italians take their tiramisu so seriously that there is even such a thing as a tiramisu academy. And although Italians are often very strict about tradition and completely lose their minds over something as banal as pineapple on pizza, it is perfectly acceptable to adapt the tiramisu recipe to your own taste from region to region and from mamma to chef. At TOZI, proportionally more mascarpone is used, giving the filling a velvety texture. Very different from most tiramisù, in which the ladyfingers are soaked in liqueur and coffee. Heavenly! Prefer ice cream? The mango sorbet and lime sorbet make for a wonderfully fresh finale.
So, if you’re looking for truly delicious Italian food in a lively restaurant with a view of the kitchen, you know where to go! And hey… you can brush up on your Italian here too; Italian lessons actually echo through the speakers in the restrooms. A fun gimmick!
Christmas at TOZI
No plans for Christmas yet? Let the TOZI team pamper you. On December 24 and 25, they will serve a special 10-course Cichetti Feast for €79 per person, featuring the most delicious TOZI dishes.
TOZI Restaurant & Bar, Koninginneweg 34, Amsterdam
