The New Classic
FavorFlav’s Marieke recently visited the Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam to get acquainted with executive chef Sidney Schutte’s concepts. You may immediately think of Librije’s Zusje, but Sidney is responsible for the hotel’s entire food & beverage operation. From the crushed langoustine in the Hooft Ballroom to the Japanese ribs in the Goldfinch Brasserie, everything is impressive. But there was one dish that stood out—and wouldn’t you know it, there’s a story behind it.
Let’s go back in history for a moment. When you think of Waldorf, you may immediately think of that one salad with walnuts, celery and mayonnaise. It was actually created at the Waldorf in New York at the end of the nineteenth century. But there are more iconic dishes. The story goes that brunch favorite eggs Benedict originated there, when a guest was looking for the perfect hangover cure. Red velvet cake also originated there.
The New Classic
In November, Sidney Schutte took on the challenge of creating a new classic. Together with four fellow Waldorf Astoria chefs from around the world, he is competing in the Taste of Waldorf competition. All five chefs have been paired with finalists for The James Beard Foundation’s Rising Star Chefs Award. The annual James Beard Awards are the most prestigious awards in the restaurant world in the US. Compare them to the Oscars, but for food.
It looks like something you have never seen before.
Sidney has been paired with Grae Nonas, chef at restaurant Olamaie in Texas. Grae spent a few days in the Netherlands in November and, based on an idea from Sidney, created a collaborative dish. A vegetarian dish, that is. According to Sidney, the future lies in vegetarian food. He receives many guests who are not necessarily vegetarian but do enjoy eating vegetarian food. The final result: a wood ear mushroom slowly cooked in garlic butter with combava (kaffir lime), crème of Gouda gris sec, smoked egg yolk and various types of radish.
From the Sea
It looks like something you have never seen before. The mushroom caps have been cut off, after all. I immediately got a feeling of being deep under the sea, as if a stunning piece of coral were lying on your plate. But ultimately, it is all about the flavor. And that flavor is certainly there: umami, fresh notes, the savory taste of the cheese and acidity. The dish is complete; no one will notice that there is no meat involved.
The grand finale takes place on 23 February at the Waldorf Astoria in New York. A vegetarian dish is, of course, always a bold choice, but it fits this era perfectly. The winning dish will be added to the menus of all 25 hotels and resorts.
About the Chef
Sidney Schutte made his name in Jonnie Boer’s kitchen, where he started in 1999 and left in 2009 for Hong Kong to work at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental under Dutch culinary star Richard Ekkebus. In 2013, he returned to the Netherlands to start working at the then-yet-to-open Waldorf Astoria. The hotel’s flagship restaurant, Librije’s Zusje, was awarded two Michelin stars within seven months of opening. His dishes feature many influences from Asian cuisine.
Text: Marieke Migchelbrink
Images: Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam
