Toscanini’s marinated fresh anchovies
Toscanini, a household name in Amsterdam and the surrounding area. Chances are you’ve been there or heard of this Italian restaurant, but what you probably don’t know is that the people behind Toscanini are also the authors of The Bible of Italian Cuisine: the new standard work on the flavors and cooking styles of Italy. With these marinated fresh anchovies as part of an antipasto misto, you’ll definitely make an impression, just as they do at Toscanini.
You might not think it, but there was a time when many Italians looked down on anchovies. The simple, inexpensive fish was (just like pangrattato; Parmesan for the poor) considered peasant food. By now, the fish has largely shed this image. Although: during the annual donkey race between the residents of Asti and Alba, the official start of truffle season in Piedmont, the neighborhood that finishes last is given an anchovy as punishment. Their task is to provide the food the following year. Indeed, with anchovies as the main ingredient. According to the authors of The Bible of Italian Cuisine, this is how to prepare the little fish best:
Method for acciughe marinate
1. Fillet the anchovies first.
2. Pour half of the lemon juice onto a plate and arrange the anchovies in a circle in it. Make sure the skin side is facing up; it looks nicer that way! Sprinkle the fish with a little sea salt, the garlic, chili pepper, flat-leaf parsley and lemon zest. Then add the rest of the lemon juice; the lemon juice ‘cooks’ the fish, so to speak. Finally, pour over some good olive oil. Leave to marinate for at least 1 hour before serving.
Method for acciughe salate (salted anchovies in oil)
1. Fillet the anchovies. Place a double layer of paper towels in a shallow dish and sprinkle with a little coarse sea salt. Place the fillets on top, sprinkle with a little sea salt and cover with paper towels. Leave overnight in a cool place. The salt draws moisture from the anchovies, making the flesh firmer and extending its shelf life.
2. The next day, remove the fillets from the paper towels and dry them with clean paper towels. Place them in a jar and add olive oil until they are completely covered. The anchovies will keep for two weeks in the refrigerator. You can eat them as they are, or serve them as part of an antipasto misto or with panzanella.
Title: The Bible of Italian Cuisine
Author: Maud Moody, Nina Bogaerts & Leonardo Pacenti
Price: €31.99
Publisher: Carrera Culinair
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