Q&A with Fish Tales’ Bart van Olphen

Bart van Olphen is co-founder of Fish Tales, is one of the stars of Jamie Oliver’s FoodTube channel and has just released another new book: The Albert Heijn Fish Cookbook.

Which food trend should we put an end to immediately?

I’m not much of a fan of food trucks. It sometimes seems as if the truck becomes more important than the food.

Most memorable food experience?

There are two, one of which is mega-complicated and the other very simple. And those two places are one kilometre apart in Rosas, Spain. In 2001, I first ate at El Bulli. It was so different and completely innovative. I don’t find molecular cuisine very interesting, but I immediately knew: this man thinks so differently from any other chef I know. That’s very exciting. My other special food experience was at Rafa’s, a little restaurant with eight seats, one chef and the chef’s brother, who takes care of the fresh fish every day. Everything is cooked in seawater or with olive oil. When Barca is playing, when he doesn’t feel like it or when he has gone fishing with his brother, the restaurant simply closes.

Favourite drink?

That would have to be wine, because I don’t drink spirits. I often choose white, but a beautiful full-bodied Italian wine makes me happy too. With fish, I like to drink a Picoul de Pinet, and with meat dishes, a Valpolicella or Montepulciano.

Indispensable kitchen gadget?

The Microplane. Ideal for grating the zest of a piece of ginger or garlic. And, of course, my favourite Japanese chef’s knife. Wherever in the world I go to cook, that knife has to come with me.

What would you never eat again?

Pre-prepared food. There are so many fresh ingredients available everywhere, and preparing delicious food isn’t complicated. It’s dreadful to see how many E-numbers are added to our food to make it last longer. Food simply shouldn’t be messed with. Poor-quality farmed fish also gives me nightmares.

Which country is your favourite when it comes to food?

I love the authenticity, purity and simplicity of Spanish cuisine. Arroz negro with a little aioli is my favourite dish, or fish baked in a salt crust. But I enjoy an evening of simple tapas just as much.

What should everyone try at least once?

Sea urchin. Unfortunately, it’s difficult to get in the Netherlands. I sometimes fish for urchins when I’m in Spain. A sea urchin has a sweet, but not sugary, concentrated flavour. At the same time, you can taste the saltiness of the sea very clearly.

What is the best product from the supermarket?

I’m a big fan of canned tuna, naturally with the MSC label. Canned tuna is an underrated product, but if you go for good quality, you can really enjoy it. It’s also convenient that you don’t need a fridge for it and that you can keep it for three years. Yes, I think it’s a truly wonderful product.

What’s still on your food wish list?

I’ve never been to Japan, but I’d love to go, especially out of culinary interest. I recently watched Jiro Dreams of Sushi and would love to eat at this man’s restaurant. But I find the culture very interesting too. Eighty per cent of fish consumption takes place in Asia. The future of fish lies there, and I’m very curious about their vision of fisheries.

Which cookbook should everyone have on their shelf?

Several. The reference works such as De Dikke van Dam, Escoffier and all of Artusi’s works. These are must-haves for all cooks. What I also really love are Jamie Oliver’s books. Through his cookbooks, he has managed to encourage people to cook. Les Diners de Gala, Salvador Dalí’s only cookbook, is beautiful because of the drawings, but you’ll have to pay almost 1,000 dollars for it on eBay.

What do you like to make at home when you want to eat quickly and well?

What I like to make at home is simple food. A little rustic. For example, a pasta carbonara with sockeye salmon or a stamppot with a good sausage. Or a good steak.

Which dish do you have no self-control around?

I think cheese is fantastic, especially Stilton and French goat’s cheese. And nuts. I could eat those all day.

Read also:

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• Squid pasta with light garlic sauce from NOBU
• Recipe: Prawns and squid in spicy sauce (ideal for fare la scarpetta!)