Cosmopolitan vibes at Next NDSM restaurant in Amsterdam-Noord

Right by the NDSM ferry in Amsterdam-Noord, about a ten-minute ferry ride from Amsterdam Central Station, restaurant Next NDSM has opened. Unlike most establishments in this creative and innovative part of the city, Next NDSM is neither industrial nor alternative, but a mix of cosmopolitan chic (think New York) and funky London. You can come here all day, from breakfast until midnight, seven days a week. Next NDSM is therefore not just a restaurant, but also a brasserie, cocktail bar and lounge bar. ‘We want to turn dining out into an evening out again. From drinks, bar, table, dinner, sofa, booth, after-dinner and music.’

From Pllek to Next NDSM

NDSM is familiar territory for Next owners Sjoerd Steenbeek and Michiel de Vries. Ten years ago, they opened the lovely, relaxed restaurant Pllek around the corner from Next. ‘Back then, we were missing a place like Pllek in Amsterdam, just as we were missing a place like Next now. An establishment with a cosmopolitan vibe and aimed at a somewhat older audience. We want to turn dining out into an evening out again. From drinks, bar, table, dinner, sofa, booth, after-dinner and music. So we set it up ourselves again,’ says towering Sjoerd (cowboy boots, flared jeans, billowing shirt with loose buttons) as he joins us at our table.

They spared no expense

Next is large; 600 m2 to be exact. As soon as you enter, you come face to face with the striking oval cocktail bar. ‘Everyone thought we were crazy. The bar took up too many square metres, but for us it’s about the experience, not the most efficient layout,’ Sjoerd told hospitality trade magazine Misset Horeca. When we compliment Sjoerd on the beautiful place, he himself looks around contentedly once more. In budgetary terms, they have gone considerably overboard—he is the first to admit it—but he is happy. ‘Fortunately, we didn’t economise on the interior.’

You can say that again. Besides the beautiful, imposing bar, the other spaces are also gorgeous—the establishment is divided into different areas, each with its own atmosphere and table setting. To the left of the bar is the lounge area, with gender-neutral toilets behind it (very woke). This space also looks beautiful, with a fan-shaped mirrored wall running its entire length, but why not simply have a separate ladies’ toilet too, I wonder when a man suddenly appears behind me (not mine) and starts washing his hands while I’m applying lipstick. To the right of the bar (by the open kitchen) is a long table where you can eat without a reservation. Via a large (part concrete, part wooden) staircase, you reach the more elegant restaurant area. In total, Next has 230 seats, in all shapes and for all preferences.

Views over the IJ

We take a seat at a small table in the corner, with a perfect view of the cocktail bar and the DJ, who spins tasty laid-back grooves throughout the evening. A top spot. The same applies to the seats by the tall windows, with views over the IJ. When the weather is nice, a large section of the windows can open like an accordion.

Bella Cerignola olives

Beneath the mocktails—we order the Pink Sailor with rhubarb, lime and ginger, and the Gradener with, among other things, beetroot, lemon and tonic—are lovely logo napkins; in the glass, Next’s grand gesture returns in the ice cubes: large cubes ensure the best dilution. We start with a few bar bites. The Bella Cerignola olives are particularly delicious: large, bright-green, fleshy, sweet olives with a hint of salt and a satisfyingly crunchy bite.

The tacos filled with chicken are also well flavoured. The menu also includes a vegetarian version (with aubergine).

From 6 to 19 euros

The dinner menu features fish, meat, vegetarian and vegan dishes ranging from 6 to 19 euros. The idea is to choose several dishes to share, around three per person, the friendly waiter recommends. The menu is clearly organised, with dishes progressing from cold to lukewarm to hot. There are also various side dishes.

We start with the fish dishes: a well-prepared piece of skrei with fried samphire in beurre blanc sauce, and a tostada topped with a thick layer of avocado cream and Yellowtail Kingfish. Farmed Yellowtail Kingfish (also known as Hamachi) has a delicate flavour that isn’t overly fishy, a good texture, beautiful white to light-pink flesh, and is a good, sustainable replacement for endangered tuna species. Unfortunately, this dish lacks some acidity and therefore umph.

That doesn’t apply to the vegetarian dish of Jerusalem artichoke, lime and artichoke. Whenever I see Jerusalem artichoke (also known as sunchoke) on a menu, I order this typical winter tuber with its gently sweet, nutty flavour. And here too, it’s an excellent choice; the dish is rich and fresh, and the fried skin of the Jerusalem artichoke adds a delicious crunch.

The dumplings, filled with lamb and spinach, taste very good, although the coriander sauce combined with the sweet-and-sour onion is somewhat dominant. The short rib (cooked for 20 hours) in black garlic sauce is also a well-executed dish. It comes with fries (‘straw potatoes’) with Berbere spices (an Ethiopian spice blend), pieces of spring onion and chilli mayo, and a fresh but rich salad of kale, peanuts and yeast.

The place fills up, the DJ keeps playing; this is clearly the kind of place you don’t come to solely for the food, but for the entire setting and atmosphere—in short, the ‘experience’.

Ferry from Central Station

With Next NDSM, Amsterdam-Noord has gained an absolute hotspot. Lively and metropolitan, where it isn’t only about food or drinks, but (even more) about social energy, inspiration and encounters. Next is seven days a week from 09.30 until late. NDSM-Kade 2, Amsterdam-Noord (directly opposite the ferry that drops you here from Central Station in ten minutes).