Guide: 24 Hours in Dublin

Never been to Dublin because of the weather? Neither had Marjan. Until last week. Now she wants to go back. Because Dublin is relaxed, sunny, fun and delicious. According to some, it’s even the ‘New Culinary Capital of Europe’. Eat that, London!

MORNING

Love Supreme

Just like in most capitals these days, Dublin’s coffee scene is excellent. The local darling is 3fE. If you see that name on the coffee bags, feel free to step inside. Still, Love Supreme in the hip Stoneybatter neighborhood is my favorite, serving beans from Koppi Fine Coffee Roasters. They serve everything from batch brews to cortados, with homemade sausage rolls on the side, among other things. Vegetarian too.

Love Supreme, 57 Manor Street, Stoneybatter, Dublin 7
3fE has several locations, including 32 Grand Canal

Slice

For breakfast or brunch, head to Slice nearby. This little sister of The Cake Café has different cakes every day (stout beer & chocolate, anyone?), as well as very good brunches and lunches. Such as homemade baked beans on toast, spicy hummus with poached eggs and roasted chickpeas, or a kind of shakshuka made with eggs and sardines.

Slice, 56 Manor Place, Stoneybatter
The Cake Café, The Daintree Building, 8 Pleasants Pl, Saint Kevin’s

Two Boys Brew

This neighborhood café is open almost 24 hours a day (7:30 a.m. to 4:00 a.m.). So you can both start your day with a hearty breakfast here and end it with that one last beer. Like all brunch places, they have a weekly menu and an even more extensive weekend menu. The biggest difference: on weekend mornings, Dubliners turn en masse to bubbles, especially prosecco. Otherwise, all the hip dishes à la overnight oats and burgers.

Two Boys Brew, 375 North Circular Road, Dublin 7

AFTERNOON

Fumbally

Another lovely brunch and lunch spot is Fumbally. It is said to be Dublin’s culinary epicenter. A beautifully spacious, hip interior with a charming, narrow street terrace. And everything on the menu is local and organic. From porridge and toast to avocado creations, eggs, bread and good coffee. There are also lots of house-fermented products and dinner on Wednesdays.

Fumbally, Fumbally Lane, Dublin 8.

Kimchi Hophouse

After walking along the cliffs—a half-hour train ride outside Dublin—it’s nice to return to the city and start drinking beer. With a bite to stave off the first pangs of hunger. Eating in a pub is a must, but it doesn’t necessarily have to be traditional pub grub. Kimchi Hophouse is Dublin’s oldest Korean restaurant and, at the same time, a deeply traditional pub with Guinness and stouts, as well as Korean wine. The place is packed with Koreans gathered around kimchi pancakes.

Kimchi Hophouse, 160 Parnell Street, Rotunda.

The Glimmerman

Another deeply traditional pub where Asians—as you often see in London—have taken over the kitchen. Until further notice, the Vietnom food truck is squeezed between discarded living-room sofas and ashtrays in the courtyard of this gigantic, winding traditional pub. Be sure to try the bánh mì with grilled paneer (Indian cheese).

The Glimmerman, 14 Stoneybatter, Arran Quay, Dublin 7.

EVENING

Fish Shop

A little piece of Paris in Dublin. Fish Shop on Benburn Street looks strikingly similar to the new generation of Parisian caves à manger, such as Clamato. Around the corner is a more upscale version that is always fully booked (6 Queen Street). Here, they only accept walk-ins. No table? Then wait with a glass of one of the fantastic biodynamic natural wines at the bar, where you can eat too. Fish dishes to share or enjoy alone, in pintxos-size portions or larger. If they’re on the menu, order the tempura oysters and Kilary Fjord mussels with fries. There’s also an upscale fish and chips takeaway.

Fish Shop, 76 Benburn Street, Dublin 7.

Assassination Custard

This tip from half-Irish Yvette van Boven and The Irish Times is a tiny place you could easily walk right past. Dublin favorites à la ray cheeks, as well as new creations from Gwen McGrath and her husband, turn this little spot into a culinary celebration.

Assassination Custard, 19a Lower Kevin Street, Dublin 8.

LATE-NIGHT SNACK

Olivo’s

You can eat traditional fish and chips in many places, but it’s most fun to order them among the locals after a night out. Huge chunks of fresh cod in batter go into the fryer alongside chunks of fries. You get them in a thick paper bag that they firmly squeeze shut. Almost everything here comes out of the fryer in batter, from hot dogs to burgers.

Olivo’s, 30 Stoneybatter, Dublin 7.

Image: Marjan Ippel