Food stories

Having Ice Cream for Breakfast: In Sicily, Granita in the Morning Is Completely Normal

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Sometimes the answer to important why-am-I-even-asking-myself-this questions is simply: why not? So too: why would you have ice cream for breakfast? During the hot Sicilian summers, Sicilians know exactly what to do with this question and treat themselves to granita. Because if the mornings are already hot, why on earth not have breakfast with ice cream? 

Foto van culinair journalist Sophie van der Meer

Technically speaking, ‘granita’ falls under drinks, but I don’t entirely agree. Granita Siciliana can be compared to a slush puppy, or shaved ice. But please don’t tell Italians that I’m comparing their cultural heritage to the spinning, sour, bright-blue or red contraption that we spent years slurping up through a spoon straw.

Granita

Granite (plural) are made from water, sugar and the ingredient of your choice. Long ago, the Arabs spread the idea of ice made from snow and ice throughout Europe. Italy was no exception. Ice was then stored in so-called ice houses, which, because of the cold temperatures, were also found on Mount Etna. These days, granite are made using special machines.

Resembles scoopable ice cream

The best-known flavors in Sicily are granita con le mandorle (almond), caffè (coffee) and limone (lemon). But granite are also sold throughout Sicily—and, for that matter, in many other parts of Italy—in all kinds of flavors, such as pistachio, peach, strawberry or orange. It’s very important, which is why I’ll never again make the comparison with a slush puppy, promise, that a granita must contain no, or hardly any, ice crystals. The mixture should be so creamy that it feels more like scoopable ice cream. However, granite are basically made without milk, egg or cream, and contain just 18–21% sugar.

With brioche

In the past, granite were served with crisp, hard or stale bread, which was softened by the ice. These days, this ‘dipping’ is done with brioche. Brioche is sweeter and softer and, in the traditional Italian style, has a sort of ‘hat’ in the middle. The crisp, soft, fluffy brioche is the perfect counterpart to the cold and refreshing ice.

Caffè Sicilia in Noto

The best-known place in Italy to eat a good Sicilian granita is Caffè Sicilia in Noto. The bar has been around since 1892, and little by little they have specialized in both the famous shaved ice and classic cassate. If you ever get the chance to go here, please do. You might find yourself having breakfast with yellow-orange peach, dark-red strawberry or white almond granita with whipped cream (why not?) and a crispy brioche, while the Sicilian sun slowly climbs above the island landscape.

There simply is no better way to start the day.

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