Q&A with Jonah Freud
She owns De Kookboekhandel on Amsterdam’s Haarlemmerdijk and is a culinary journalist. Jonah Freud also writes cookbooks herself. Zeelust will be published soon, a book of favorite addresses along the Dutch coast written by Jonah and her daughter Cijn.
Which food trend should we put an immediate stop to?
Calling everything healthy. We all need to start eating normally again. Because the label ‘healthy’ is stuck on everything, people think it’s more expensive. As a result, people actually eat less healthily. While an apple is still considerably cheaper than a doughnut. We need to stop giving certain foods a special status. Eating lots of vegetables and no more than meat three times a week, I don’t consider that ‘healthy’ but simply quite normal.
Most memorable food experience?
I have had many. One from the past year was a lunch at brasserie de Vluchthaven in Zeeland. There, they take it for granted that you use fresh, organic products. In the morning, the cooks go into the water, catch a fish and preferably prepare it outside on the barbecue that same afternoon. And they don’t make a fuss about it. You get a whole fish on your plate. I like that.
Favorite drink?
Amsterdam tap water. The only drink I miss when I’m abroad. I drink a lot of water. Preferably straight from the tap, with my mouth on it. I also make sparkling water myself from this tap water. All drinks are replaceable—wine and beer can often be found abroad too—except Amsterdam tap water. Water doesn’t taste this good anywhere else.
There isn’t a gadget I’ve used for so long. That thing is indestructible.
Indispensable kitchen gadget?
My large Opinel, my most-used kitchen knife. Chef’s knives often seem to be made for men’s hands, but this one fits my hand perfectly. And my sheet-metal wok, the cheapest one from the Chinese supermarket. There isn’t a gadget I’ve used for so long. That thing is indestructible.
What will you never eat again?
I actually eat everything, but completely against my principles, I really don’t eat tripe. I once resolved to try it during a dinner, but I didn’t. It was right in front of me, but I couldn’t do it. I want to eat it, but I can’t. I learned to eat everything as a child. My father often ate tripe, but for some reason I really can’t get it down.
Which country is your favorite when it comes to food?
The countries around the Mediterranean, with an emphasis on the North African countries. I think Moroccan and Lebanese cuisine are fantastic. And Italy and France, of course—I grew up with those cuisines.
What should everyone try at least once?
Calf’s liver. So delicious, it’s as if a little angel is urinating on your tongue. I eat it when I’m home alone, because no one in my family likes it. And duck breasts roasted on the barbecue. Also incredibly delicious.
What is the best product from the supermarket?
In the Netherlands, I actually only go to the supermarket for lemonade syrup and pet food. And tins of cod liver, which they simply sell at Albert Heijn. I spread it on my bread.
What is still on your wish list when it comes to food?
I love going out to eat, but I prefer eating at home. With a group of friends around the table. Last year, I was given a pig, which we then butchered ourselves. I like that. As a city dweller [Jonah lives in central Amsterdam, ed.], I would like a little more of country life on my plate. I’ve been working on a vegetable garden for some time.
I’ll go to great lengths for good bread.
Which cookbook should everyone have on their shelf?
De Groentebijbel by Mari Maris. We need to start thinking from the vegetables. When you think about what you’re going to eat, vegetables should be the foundation. First think, ‘I have Brussels sprouts,’ then see what you can eat with them. This bible helps you think that way.
What do you like to make at home when you want to eat quickly and well?
I never cook quickly anymore. I used to, when my children lived at home. Now I no longer need to cook quickly. Cooking is pure relaxation for me; I never see it as a chore. I cook all kinds of things and eat a varied diet. I only decide on the day itself what I want to eat, and then I do the shopping. At my house in France, I do the shopping for the entire week. I simply buy all kinds of things and see what I make each day.
Which dish do you have no self-control around?
Bread. Sandwiches. More bread. With salted butter. I’ll go to great lengths for good bread. Sometimes, for example, I drive to IJmuiden to buy bread from baker Oscar. I’m currently making my own sourdough starter. It has failed so far, but I keep trying.
