Q&A with Peter Lute
Peter Lute is doing great: he has just released his book De kracht van kruiden, in which he teaches you how to get the most out of your herbs. In October, his new restaurant in Amsterdam, ARC, part of the new Pestana Hotel, will also open.
Which food trend should we put an end to immediately?
Trends don’t emerge for no reason; they exist because there is a need for something. But excessive meat consumption should be moderated. Eating a lot of meat is no longer realistic when you consider the future.
With the right technique, meat can also be replaced very well with other proteins. So chicken nuggets don’t have to be made from chicken meat at all, because a lot of flavorings are added to them anyway.
Most memorable dining experience?
In terms of flavor and technique, a few weeks ago I ate at Etxebarri again, near San Sebastián.
It’s really delicious, and then I think: this is what it’s all about. Flavor and simplicity.
Favorite drink?
White Burgundy in general. It simply remains delicious and is the ultimate form of grape juice.
Indispensable kitchen gadget?
Apart from my knives, I have a really great herb scissors from KAI, designed by French chef Michel Bras. The design of those scissors is also very beautiful.
What would you never eat again?
I don’t like putting something in my mouth when I don’t know what’s in it. For example, I really want to make liver sausage and spreadable sausage myself; otherwise, I’d rather not eat them. I am curious, though, so I often do want to try everything.
I never cook with frog legs. They don’t excite me; they’re just like chicken. I think the excitement is in the sauce. Besides, the way they are obtained simply isn’t worth it.
Which country is your favorite when it comes to food?
Japan. Because of its purity and the culture that you find reflected in every way; not only in the product itself, but also in the way they handle it. There is a strange, ambiguous respect involved. I have had special experiences in Japan. Dutch cuisine has also reached a high level by now.
What should everyone try at least once?
If you have never eaten Camarones—a Spanish prawn—you really have to try them. They cost a bit, but you get something special in return. You can show off with lobster, but for me those Camarones are the ultimate little creatures, with an incredible amount of flavor and a beautiful texture. I even wonder how nature created them.
What is the best product from the supermarket?
I never go to the supermarket, and I think it’s a strange idea to buy the same things every week in the same place. But the best product is Albert Heijn’s little vegetable garden. Children get to go outside and work with those gardens. That was a brilliant move.
What is still on your culinary wish list?
Eating at Fäviken is definitely my first thing to do when I have time again. It is Magnus Nilsson’s restaurant in Sweden.
Which cookbook should everyone have on their shelf?
De kracht van kruiden, of course. But another really lovely one is the domestic science cookbook: Wannée. It has already been reprinted a hundred times. It contains the essence of cooking and is an incredible foundation to start with.
What do you like to make at home when you want to eat quickly and well?
Citrus risotto with herbs. I flavor it with a paste made from fermented lemons and fresh herbs, and then it’s ready. When they’re in season, I make risotto with autumn and winter truffles—deliciously decadent.
Which dish do you have no self-control around?
Oysters. Very unwise, but I always want more of them. The finer oysters, though, such as our own flat Zeeland oysters, or fines de claire oysters that have been well-watered, so they’re not too salty.
