Seven things you absolutely shouldn’t do as a food lover in Malta
Malta may be small, but when it comes to food, this island is mighty. Plenty of sunshine, seafood fresher than fresh and street food so delicious you’ll be licking your fingers. And all of it without plundering your bank account. But even in the Mediterranean’s foodie paradise, there are pitfalls for foodies. These are seven things you shouldn’t do when you’re in Malta.
1. Eat nothing but pasta
Of course, you’re near Italy, not far from Sicily, and the Sicilians were probably the first rulers here, but Malta has so much more to offer. Think pastizzi, the flaky pastries filled with creamy irkotta (the local cheese that does indeed sound suspiciously similar to that Italian cheese), the hearty rabbit stew fenkata (stuffat tal-fenek), fish soup packed with prawns (aljotta) and dips such as bigilla, with garlic and chili. Spread it on bread, eat it with your fish or simply dip your finger in it, no judgements here. Maltese cuisine is a celebration of Mediterranean flavors with a twist of its own. So forget that plate of pasta and the standard pizza and try the real classics.
2. Don’t try ftira
When you say Maltese street food, you say ftira. This round, flatbread is filled with tuna, tomato paste, olives, capers and basil. Add some extra ġbejna—the Maltese sheep’s cheese—and you’ll understand why the locals eat this everywhere. Pro tip: eat it with a view of the sea. Malta has plenty of spots where you can snack at Michelin-worthy levels without a tablecloth.
3. Skip the fish market in Marsaxlokk
Every foodie knows: where there are fishermen, there’s freshness. The Sunday market in Marsaxlokk is one such place. The village’s name comes from marsa (meaning harbor or bay in Arabic) and xlokk, the Maltese word for southeast. Go early, buy some prawns and pick up a jar of local honey to take home. (Tip: put it in a plastic bag! We’re speaking from experience..) And if you don’t feel like cooking? Pull up a chair at Il-Kartell in Gozo for fishcakes and aljotta.
4. Pass up the local drinks
Beer lover? Try Cisk, the national beer. Liqueur fan? Bajtra, made from prickly pear, is your new summer favorite. Soft drink fanatic? Try the retro drink Kinnie. This golden-brown beverage is made with bitter oranges and herbs, and its bitter, citrusy flavor is reminiscent of Italian chinotto drinks. And wine? Malta has two indigenous grapes: the red ġellewża and white girgentina, and bottles from Ta’ Betta and Meridiana can go straight into your suitcase. Again: wrap them in a plastic bag.
5. Think it’s all British
Yes, there are red phone boxes, and yes, people drive on the left. How did that happen? Well, from 1800 to 1974, the British ruled the island. But don’t be fooled: Malta is a crossroads of cultures. From Arabic-sounding street names to Italian influences on your plate. The Maltese speak perfect English, but cook with Maltese heart and soul. And you can taste it.
6. Stay only in Valletta
Valletta is beautiful, colorful and a culinary paradise, but also make your way to Dingli (and then to restaurant Barbajean!) Or hop on the ferry to Gozo, where you can pick up a bottle of wine at Ta’ Mena and sink your teeth into Maltese sausage with coriander and garlic. Or go for a picnic at the Dingli Cliffs with pastizzi you bought yourself and a bottle of wine. It doesn’t get more romantic. Oh wait, it does: Malta is home to the most romantic restaurant in Europe!
7. Think it’s expensive
Spoiler: Malta is surprisingly affordable. A snack such as pastizzi costs less than one euro, you can order a glass of Maltese wine for under three euros, and at many eateries you can have three courses for a few dozen euros. Go to the local market and eat where the locals do, and you’ll eat like a king at backpacker prices.
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