Restaurants

Test Sleeping: Slagerij de Beurs / Eden Hotel Amsterdam

Slagerij De Beurs header

Hotel restaurants, once the neglected child of the hospitality industry, have suddenly become the only places where we can still go out to eat. And completely safely, too! The only drawback is an advantage: you have to stay the night. So in the coming weeks, we’ll be test-sleeping in hotels. In search of the best restaurant hotel, but also to give the hospitality industry a helping hand. Today: Slagerij de Beurs and Eden Hotel in Amsterdam.

Foto van culinair journalist Vincent van Dijk

We arrive….

On the restaurant door at the corner of the empty Waterlooplein hangs a sad little printout: Unfortunately, we are only open to hotel guests. I enter the enormous hotel through the entrance on the equally deserted Amstel and check in via a screen. After a short siesta in my room, I walk through to the restaurant. To my surprise, more people without coats trickle in here. It feels intimate, as if we are forming a secret society. La société sans manteau.

The space, which for years housed the somewhat worn Brasserie Flo, with its linen tablecloths and graceful platters of fruits de mer, has been modernized. With saffron-colored benches and chairs, but the openness of the brasserie has remained. The candles in wine bottles are a dripping wink to the past.

Slagerij De Beurs interior

What can we expect?

Slagerij de Beurs cooks English food with a French touch; we already wrote about it very enthusiastically. Hearty meat dishes such as deep-fried pig’s trotter are effortlessly alternated with subtle vegetable dishes. Each one expertly paired with fine wines. ‘We had just opened and immediately had to close again. The world is upside down. We were in a prime location, but now we’re a destination restaurant,‘ says Art Muntjewerf with a booming laugh. Together with his hospitality-industry friend Timo de Beurs, from the eponymous butcher’s family, he embarked on this new adventure. Both are hospitality professionals (The Lobby, Gebr. Hartering), and you feel that immediately upon entering. There is plenty of laughter, while every table constantly receives all the love, care and just the right dose of humor from the seasoned hosts. Energetic ’60s/’70s songs boom through the room. In the kitchen, they work with concentration and meticulous precision.

What are we eating?

After an Americano and a bowl of plump little oysters, the first piece of pure craftsmanship appears on the table: pork and apple pâté en croûte. Deliciously juicy inside and nicely crisp outside.
Followed by a creamy clam chowder with crisp vegetables and cockles that taste like a holiday by the sea. Then, out of the corner of my eye, I see a masterpiece of a pie passing by, as though it had been cut from a painting of the Dutch Golden Age. ‘You’re being offered a piece by regular guests,’ says the host, who apparently feared I was plotting a covert attack on the work of art. The sample tasted like I wanted much more, but fortunately I immediately receive my own miniature version with rabbit, bacon and plum.
Once again crisp, with a filling so juicy that the gravy boat remains unemployed on the side. ‘I want this served at my funeral,’ I tell the host. ‘Well, then you can die now,’ he replies with a laugh. I’m actually ready to leave too. Completely happy. So I skip the universally praised desserts, because all I want is to collapse like a corpulent emperor into an enormous hotel bed and dream of a life of pie.

What will bring us back?

Definitely for the unrivaled baked creations, but also for the warm atmosphere. And because I’m still curious about the desserts. Staying overnight at Hotel Eden is no punishment either! The hotel’s ground floor is currently being renovated, but the rooms have already been renewed. Mine has voluptuous motifs, a four-poster bed and lots of mirrors. Wonderfully over the top, but with unexpected details, such as a jenever cocktail as a welcome drink. The well-organized breakfast with a bread bag, an individual toppings dish and an egg tailored to personal preferences is a lovely conclusion to this culinary mini-holiday.

Package

Book a room at Eden Hotel on Friday/Saturday for 47.50 euros and enjoy dinner at Slagerij De Beurs. For 44 euros, you can have a daily menu, and on other days you can order ridiculously delicious food via Deliveroo, but you’ll have to end up in your own bed.

Slagerij De Beurs, Amstelstraat 9, Amsterdam

Read also:

Geen foodnews Missen?