Restaurants

Trial Stay: Hard Rock Amsterdam American

Hotel restaurants, once the neglected child of the hospitality industry, have suddenly become the only places where we can still go out to eat. And completely safely, too! The only drawback is an advantage: you have to stay overnight. In the coming weeks, we will therefore be trying out hotel stays. In search of the best restaurant hotel, but also to give the hospitality industry a helping hand. Today: Hard Rock Amsterdam American and the pop-up trio of Restaurant Wils, Slagerij De Beurs and Café Americain.

Foto van culinair journalist Vincent van Dijk

door Vincent van Dijk

Leidseplein is festively lit up. Where tourists would normally walk, a handful of Amsterdammers are now cycling. The fountains in front of the steps of the iconic city palace are spraying exuberantly. ‘If music be the food of love, play on‘ proclaims Shakespeare on a blackboard.

Amy Winehouse

Amsterdammers were up in arms when ‘their Americain’ was going to become a Hard Rock hotel, but the once-worn hotel has regained its allure. This becomes clear as soon as you see the lobby. ‘Everything is ready,’ says the receptionist, handing me a folder with the room keys and a backstage pass on a cord. A colleague comes walking over from the back: ‘You are invited to have a drink at the bar at 17:00.’ She escorts me upstairs. By the lift is an open guest book bearing Amy Winehouse’s signature, and hanging on the wall is Prince’s framed purple jacket.

In the hotel room, behind the bed, hang black-and-white portraits of jazz singers. Against the richly patterned wall are a record cabinet, a gramophone player and an amplifier. I put on a record. Music transforms the hotel room into a living room. A set table is waiting. This is also the restaurant tonight.

Piano Music

When I am sitting at the central bar downstairs, the hotel manager comes over to me. ‘Welcome to the Hard Rock American,’ she says cheerfully. ‘We opened in April after a huge renovation. A strange time, of course. But fortunately, it gives us every opportunity to show everyone how beautiful the hotel has become. It’s lovely to have you here. Did you see the records in the room? We keep track of which records you like, so the collection in the room becomes increasingly personal. You’re in luck: tonight is the first evening of our new concept.’ A journalist friend joins me. ‘How lovely that we’re having dinner together tonight,’ she says enthusiastically, toasting with her cocktail. ‘Well, sort of. Oh, this is my favorite!’ she trills, pointing to the pianist playing an unrecognizable song. The piano notes complete the Art Nouveau décor, with its Tiffany lamps and stained-glass windows, of the grand café.

Setlist

It is almost 18:30 when we hurry upstairs. Bread and butter have already been set out on the table. The menu is called ‘Set List’ here. A little later, there is a knock at the door. An amuse with a welcome drink in the same color: sea buckthorn kombucha. ‘There are bottles of wine in the fridge to match every dish,’ explains the host from Slagerij De Beurs. He opens the fridge and holds up small olive-oil bottles with labels. He lights the oil lamp on the table.
‘Pretty intimate,’ I say. ‘As if you’re standing in my bedroom.’ ‘That’s right,’ he says with a laugh. ‘Your dream is coming true.’ A DJ is playing on the large television in the middle of the room.

Party time!

Leaning against the half-empty bottle of wine is the journalist friend, via a video connection. ‘This is cozy!’ she says, laughing into the phone camera. ‘How do we turn on the television?’ There is another knock, and a pâté en croûte is placed on the table. We pour the corresponding wine. The pork encased in pastry, veal tongue, foie, apricot and pistachio form an extraordinary symphony. Another knock. ‘Party time!’ calls out the chef from Wils, placing an outrageous langoustine with beef fat, Granny Smith and radicchio on the table. ‘With a little brioche to clean the plate.’

Smoky Jazz

On the television, the American singer performs smoky jazz songs. Our private restaurant turns into a nightclub. I stand by the round mirror next to the bed and toast myself. Then the main course arrives: a pie of rabbit, bacon and plum, which we tasted earlier, but which tastes even better than in my blissful memory. The dessert with chocolate and trompettes de la mort is a feast for both the eyes and the palate.

Backstage

The host comes in and asks whether we would like some final wine before the clock strikes eight, and clears away the used plates. ‘Bubbles,’ says my dining companion, so enthusiastically that I jump. ‘After all, we’re out.’ After the champagne, we wander through the hotel in search of the artists’ memorabilia decorating the walls. In the hallway, we run into the pianist. He says: ‘I still have to spin some records in the Rock Star Suite—are you coming?’ He takes his place behind the Pioneer turntable, and we collapse onto the sofa. We’re backstage! A little later, the American singer sits down next to me. ‘Great to finally meet my audience,’ she says with a laugh.

Rock Voice

The next morning, we wake up with a start. ‘Breakfast,’ I call out in a rock voice. We take a shower and run into the breakfast room. ‘We’re much too late,’ I say apologetically, but the breakfast attendant nods understandingly. ‘Take a seat,’ he says, and two minutes later the table is filled with fresh rolls, eggs, juice, yogurt, fruit and toppings. This hotel understands what a rock star needs.

The Americain Rocks Again

The iconic American Hotel was taken over by the Hard Rock Group, completely renovated and officially reopened in June. The comfortable rooms are furnished in a contemporary and luxurious style and, like the rest of the hotel, have music as their leitmotif. Next month, the chefs from Restaurant Wils by Joris Bijdendijk, Slagerij De Beurs and Café Americain will cook a special menu, served in the room with live music performances, under the catchy name: Taste Beats. For 325 euros, you get a Superior Room and dinner with matching wines in the room, complete with a live television concert. An unforgettable experience, so make sure to reserve a spot soon. We can only say: the American rocks.

Hard Rock Amsterdam Americain, Leidsekade 97, Amsterdam

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