Q&A with Ronald Giphart
Ronald Giphart not only writes novels, but also a lot about food. Together with his wife Mascha Lammes, he wrote Vurrukkulluk, and previously he wrote Keukenprins. He also writes about food in columns for various food platforms. In short: reason enough to ask him everything under the sun.
Which food trend should we put an immediate stop to?
That parade of amuse-bouches. For years, people have been calling for an end to it: just stop it already. All those idiotic little bites arranged with tweezers. So tasty, but much tastier than the rest of the meal. You are built up into a state of excitement, but the rest of the dinner doesn’t live up to it.
Look, one amuse-bouche is fun. But seven?! That really isn’t necessary. In a truly excellent restaurant it adds something, but in many places I have to giggle a little. I’d be happy to abolish amuse-bouches.
Most memorable dining experience?
I once helped with the cookbook for De Librije; I wrote the text for Jonnie Boer’s recipes. Together with the photographer, we were invited to come and eat, with our wives.
Everything was perfectly attuned. Each course surpassed the previous one. It was an orgasmic meal of about twelve courses. What I remember well is the bonbon we got for dessert: a mini avocado. I didn’t know it could be a dessert, but it was very special.
We photographed everything that evening. Every now and then, we still look back at the pictures while eating stamppot.
Favorite drink?
Beer. Not wine. That’s another food trend I always have to chuckle about: those wine-and-food pairings everywhere. That endless fuss about wine. Sloping hills, grapevines, 57 years old… A sommelier like that at your table. I genuinely enjoy drinking it, but I find all that waffle truly laughable.
I find beer much more pleasant to drink. Preferably from microbrewers such as Jopen, de Kaapse Brouwers, de Rooie Dop and de Molen; there are so many great ones in the Netherlands. I drink all kinds: bitter, hoppy beer and India pale ale. And I drink pilsner when we’re really getting stuck into the drinking.
Indispensable kitchen gadget?
Definitely the scales. The digital kitchen scales broke recently, and that was really annoying. I think we were making our own pastry cases for ragout, which ultimately worked with measuring cups. That’s how they did it before scales, of course.
What will you never eat again?
Canned peas, or peas from a jar. I really hate those. And canned brown beans. Or white beans in tomato sauce.
Which country is your favorite when it comes to food?
I’d rather choose a continent, namely Asia. Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Indonesian. They have such wonderful flavors; they appeal to me more than those of any other continent. The follow-up to our cookbook Vurrukkulluk will therefore be a collection of one hundred recipes from Asian cuisine.
What should everyone try at least once?
We are all too addicted to meat, so I think everyone should eat more vegetables. I ate vegetarian for a while to write about it. That’s when I discovered that vegetarian menus are much more flavorful, creative and exciting. In the better restaurants, that is. Chefs feel challenged and start cooking more playfully. Restaurant Niven in Rijswijk, for example, has a ratio of 20–80 between meat (and fish) and vegetables.
What is the best product in the supermarket?
The exit? No, just kidding. I don’t go there very often, but when I do, it’s for snacks and savory nibbles for parties.
What is still on your food-related wish list?
Just for fun, working in a food truck for a month. With a truck, ten sandwiches on the menu, and then selling them. For the story, I’d like to travel along with a festival such as TREK.
It would be about the romance of being on the road. Just as people used to wander around, then come together to eat and celebrate. A festival like TREK or Rollende Keukens is actually a continuation of that old tradition of traveling around.
Which cookbook should everyone have on their shelf?
Our own cookbook Vurrukkulluk, of course—a real family cookbook. Another cookbook is De Complete Aziatische keuken. Everything you want to know about that cuisine is in it.
What do you like to make at home when you want to eat quickly and well?
Ragout. I put in anything I have at home. Stock, butter, flour and some vegetables. Or peanut soup, just as easy. It’s on the table within twenty minutes. The secret ingredient? Palm sugar is indispensable, as is lemongrass.
Which dish makes you lose all self-control?
I’d have to choose something sweet. Chocolate ice cream—I don’t think I have any self-control when it comes to that. Or summer bread pudding with red fruit. I eat until my stomach literally hurts. That’s heroin among desserts.
Image: Marc Deurloo
