Brasserie is the magic word for all new hospitality venues. But what exactly is a brasserie?
One brasserie after another is opening its doors, and even distinguished Michelin-starred chefs such as Hans van Wolde are converting a restaurant into a brasserie. Where did the brasserie come from, and where is this trend heading? Trade magazine Food Inspiration has the definitive answer.
Brasserie currently seems to be the magic word for every new hospitality venue. Informal, no white tablecloths or starched napkins, staff wearing a blouse and apron instead of a jacket: classic brasserie. We had an amazing meal at brasserie Gossler & Florin in Amsterdam and at brasserie Café Visscher in Leiden. According to Food Inspiration, the brasserie is replacing old-fashioned concepts such as the lunchroom, cafeteria and even the restaurant.
The reason? Those concepts are too closely tied to a particular time of day, whereas at a brasserie you immediately feel that you can drop by in the morning, afternoon, evening and sometimes even at night for something delicious from the menu. And perhaps it is also a flirtation with Belgium, where the brasserie—which you also associate with Burgundian enjoyment—has never disappeared.
Drinking establishment
Did you know that brasseries originally had to do with breweries? Even the word ‘brasserie’ is related to the German ‘Brauhaus’; originally, it was a drinking establishment attached to a brewery. Gradually—as the French are so good at doing—the menu expanded. From Alsace, the brasserie also conquered Paris. The formula: an easygoing menu, although more upscale establishments soon began calling themselves brasseries too. Just think of brasserie Flo, which also briefly had a location in Amsterdam: even with the best will in the world, you cannot call that down-to-earth, with its classic French menu (including steak tartare, ahhh…).
Raising its head
And now? Michelin-starred chefs are calling their more relaxed concepts ‘brasseries’, such as Jonnie and Thérèse Boer, and Food Inspiration is seeing brasseries springing up all over the country. But so far, the brasserie has not exactly been a resounding success in the Netherlands. The slightly old-fashioned bistro—a charming French restaurant and hyper-romantic—is much more successful, writes Food Inspiration.
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