Eating Herring in 12 Steps

Everything you need to know about Hollandse Nieuwe 2017. How do you recognize a good herring? What does it taste like this year? And ten more questions and answers.

What is Hollandse Nieuwe?

Herring may be called Hollandse Nieuwe if it has been gutted, salted and filleted in the traditional way. That is a Dutch invention, after all. The herring must also have a fat content of at least sixteen percent. Hollandse Nieuwe therefore has nothing to do with the fish’s Dutch origin. In fact, it is herring caught mainly by Norwegian, Danish and Scottish fishermen.

What is ‘New’ about it?

In May, when the herring is fatty enough, the fishing season begins and runs until mid-July. The catch from that year may (officially) be called Hollandse Nieuwe until September. After September, the herring from that season is officially no longer called Hollandse Nieuwe, but maatjesharing. Incidentally, it is the same herring, with the same fat percentage and from the same season. Maatje is a corruption of ‘maidenly’ and ‘little maiden’ (‘matje’ in Germany). When herring is caught, roe and milt have not yet formed.

What is the secret to good herring?

Just as with other fish, the same applies to herring: the fresher, the better. Always ask your fishmonger for herring ‘fresh from the knife’. In other words, cleaned on the spot, à la minute.

Good herring needs nothing extra. Taste the fatty, briny flavor.

What can go wrong?

Heat is the great enemy. Herring must not be sold below 7 degrees. And that often goes wrong. The annual AD herring test shows that around 50 percent of the herring stalls and fish shops surveyed sell spoiled herring: too old, rancid or far too salty (in other words: left sitting too long).

How else can you recognize good herring?

Old herring smells strong and tastes rancid. You should not be able to smell fresh herring, and it should certainly not taste too salty. The texture should be tender and taste fatty. The inside should be pale; bright red is also acceptable. If a fish is dark red along the backbone, something is wrong.

How fresh is fresh?

Fresh and herring are always relative terms. Most herring sold in the Netherlands is caught in the waters around Scandinavia and comes ashore at the fish auction in Denmark. In Denmark, the herring is stripped of its innards and gills as quickly as possible, auctioned and driven to the Netherlands the same day. At the wholesaler, the herring is brined (placed in barrels with water and salt) and frozen. On request, the fishmonger receives new barrels of frozen herring.

How do you recognize a good fishmonger?

By good staff who know how to handle herring properly: no bones and neatly ‘cleanly’ cut. Also important: thawing must be done carefully. A good fishmonger lets the herring mature for a few more days in a cold room at zero degrees to achieve exactly the right flavor.

Onion or pickles with it?

Good herring needs nothing extra. Taste the fatty, briny flavor. Enthusiasts therefore go for ‘without’. And for two or three in a row.

In pieces or by the tail?

Well, that depends on where you come from. Amsterdammers opt for herring in pieces. The ‘Hague School’ (The Hague and the surrounding area, including Scheveningen, but also Rotterdam) throws its head back and eats it by the tail.

We are very fond of: ‘Give yourself a reward, have herring freshly cut by Koning’

And at home?

Toast a piece of white bread and place the fish on top. Cut the bread into four pieces. Delicious with a glass of white wine or a small glass of ice-cold aquavit. A ‘takeaway herring’ should always be properly wrapped and chilled, by the way (see the temperature point). For example, transport it with ice cubes.

And the question of all questions: what is Hollandse Nieuwe like this year?
Editor-in-chief Marcus Polman ate it at one of his favorite herring stalls, at the Botermarkt in Haarlem. His verdict? Yes, it is wonderfully full-fat and tender again. As every year. What else is new? Thanks to the well-oiled PR machine of the Dutch Fish Bureau, which successfully prepares the public each year for yet another excellent herring season. Was there ever a bad herring year?

Anything else about the best fishmonger slogan?

We are very fond of: ‘Give yourself a reward, have herring freshly cut by Koning’ (credits: herring seller Kees Koning in Rijswijk). And a close second: ‘Unquestionably, the best herring specialist is here’ (Albert Cupymarkt herring stall).

Our favorite herring party?

The one at the Hilton, the mother of all herring parties, where the entire Dutch food- and herring-loving community gathers every year. Organized by Hilton boss Roberto Payer. This year marks its 25th anniversary.