Going on a wine trip? This Italian region is far more interesting than Champagne
When you think of a sparkling wine trip, you probably think of Champagne. But for the adventurer who wants to try something different, there’s a much more interesting alternative a little farther south: Trentino. More specifically, the region where Trentodoc is made, using the same method as its French counterpart. I spent four days there and would love to tell you why, for your next wine trip, you should cross the Alps to my beloved Italy.
Trentodoc: Italy’s answer to champagne
Like champagne, Trentodoc is made according to the méthode traditionnelle, called metodo classico in Italian. This means that the wine undergoes its second fermentation in the bottle, giving it its characteristic delicate bubbles and bread-like aromas. Although the production methods are the same, the terroir of the Trento DOC region gives Trentodoc its own character.
The grape varieties used are more or less the same, but not exactly; chardonnay, pinot nero, pinot meunier and pinot bianco are permitted in the DOC. Chardonnay is clearly the star of Trentodoc in both white and rosé sparkling wines, while pinot meunier and pinot bianco are rarely, if ever, used. Trentodoc wines have a fresh, mineral undertone thanks to the Alpine soil, with vineyards located high in the mountains. The difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures is significant, allowing the grapes to ripen and develop their flavor slowly while retaining the beautiful acidity that is essential for sparkling wines. A formidable competitor, then.
Less touristy
After a little over twelve hours by car—or less than two hours by plane—you’ll be in Trentino. The region is easy to reach from all airports in Northern Italy, with Verona just a one-hour drive away and Venice and Bergamo about two hours away by car. Trentino may welcome a fair number of tourists every year, but it is still a relatively undiscovered wine destination. The Trentodoc Festival—which held its third edition last September—currently mainly attracts Italians. The great advantage is that, besides there being fewer crowds, winemakers often take plenty of time to show you their processes, and you can often speak with them directly. There are big names, but you’ll also find many small winemakers specializing in Trentodoc.
Big and small winemakers
Alongside the powerhouse Ferrari, I also visited, for example, the Pedrotti winery, which produces small batches of sparkling wine and stores them in a cave that you can visit by appointment. Where ammunition was once stored directly beneath the front line, the wines now rest at an ideal, constant temperature until they are ready for your glass. At Ferrari, you enter a completely different world: one of luxury and dizzying corridors filled with wine at every stage of the production process.
Ferrari bubbles
Ferrari, by the way, has nothing to do with flashy cars, but takes its name from Trentodoc pioneer Giulio Ferrari, who decided to compete with the French in his native land. As he had no heirs, he passed the baton to Bruno Lunelli, who owned a wine shop in Trento. Lunelli turned Ferrari winery into the most famous producer, and the third generation is still at the helm—the Lunellis now even own wineries in Tuscany and Umbria, produce mineral water and grappa, and own a Michelin-starred restaurant. Since 2021, appropriately enough, it has been Ferrari bottles that are used for the Formula 1 celebrations.
And particularly festive: Ferrari has been named ‘Sparkling Wine Producer of the Year’ for the fourth consecutive time. This took place during the 11th edition of the Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships (CSWWC). It is the seventh time they have won this prestigious title, proof of their consistently outstanding quality.
Incredible surroundings
What makes Trentodoc particularly special is that its wines are made between and on the slopes of the majestic Dolomites. The vineyards are set in a spectacular landscape of towering mountains and plains dotted with typical Northern Italian villages, and are surrounded by lakes, including Lake Garda. These factors are beneficial not only to the grapes but also to your trip. The landscape is perfect not only for a round of sparkling-wine tastings, but also for hikes, bike rides, shopping—Trento is particularly fashion-conscious—visiting museums, historic monasteries and castles.
A blend of different cuisines
And then there’s the food, of course. In Trentino, you’ll find a mix of Italian and Austrian influences in both culture and gastronomy. In the region’s kitchens, different languages are spoken—literally and figuratively. Dishes are considerably heartier than those you’ll find farther south, but don’t expect boring schnitzel fare. Traditional dishes include carne salada, made from thinly sliced salted and aged beef, and strangolapreti, balls of bread, cheese and spinach. But Trentino is certainly not all about hearty peasant food; it’s bursting with hip restaurants, and there are plenty of stars to count as chefs serve up feather-light dishes.
More affordable without compromising on quality
One of the major advantages of a trip to Trentino is that it is often considerably more affordable than a trip to the Champagne region, both in terms of accommodation and wine tours. You have to travel a few more miles to get there, but in Trentino you don’t yet have to contend with the prestige status that drives up prices. What’s more, the bottles you take home are also easier on your wallet—although, of course, that depends on how far you take it.
Although Champagne has its well-deserved reputation, Trentodoc is increasingly gaining international recognition as a premium sparkling wine. The region is investing heavily in improving winemaking techniques and innovation, bringing the wines increasingly into the spotlight. And while you’re there, keep in mind that Trentino produces more than just sparkling wine. The region is also known for its still red wines, such as teroldego and marzemino. That makes a wine trip to Trentino even more versatile, should you start to tire of the bubbles.
Trentodoc Festival
The very best time for a wine trip is in September, when the Trentodoc Festival I mentioned earlier takes place. Many winemakers open their doors to the public, wine tastings are available throughout Trento with your admission ticket, and dinners by (star) chefs from the region can be booked at special locations. I got fully dressed up for dinner at Ferrari’s incredible private villa, where Michelin-starred chef Eduardo Fumagalli of Locanda Margon—the restaurant also owned by the winery—prepared the meal. Who knows what wonderful things will be on the program next year.
Want to sample Trentodoc at home first? You can find the sparkling wine online at various webshops. In stores, look for the Trentodoc logo, which is clearly displayed on the label of every wine.
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